TS 
1449 


INITED  STATES 
ILK  ONDITIONING 


472-474  BROOME  ST.,  NEW  YORK 


CONDITIONING 
19O8 


THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 

LOS  ANGELES 


THIS    PHOTOGRAPH,    OF    WHICH    A    REDUCED    COPY    APPEARS    ON    THE 

COVER,   SHOWS   A  CORTI   SYSTEM  CONDITIONING  OVEN,  IN 

OPERATION  AT  THE  LABORATORY  OF  THE  U.  S. 

SILK  CONDITIONING  CO.,  NEW  YORK. 


UNITED  STATES   SILK 
CONDITIONING    COMPANY 

Laboratory:    472-474   Broome   Street,  New  York  City 


Conditioning  Tests 

Their  Value  in  Purchasing, 
Throwing,  Dyeing  and  ^iVeavmg  Silk 
with  Illustrations  


Convenient    Tables    and    Units,   Metric   ami 
other   Equivalents 


1908 


SiiK.   manufacturing  is  not  only  a   business,    but  a  Science 

SIIK  conditioning  is  as  necessary    to    the    business    as    to    the    Science 


HOUTEN     COMPANY 


409-415      PEARL      STREET 
NEW     YORK 


CONTENTS 

PAGE 

Photograph    of    Corti    conditioning    oven    in    operation    at    United    States    Silk 

Conditioning   Company,    New    York Frontispiece 

Resolution    of    the    Board    of    Managers    of    the    Silk    Association    of    America, 
designating   the    United    States    Silk    Conditioning    Company    as    the    official 

Conditioning    House   for   the    Association 4 

Officers  and   Directors  of  the   United   States   Silk  Conditioning   Co.,   1908 5 

Stockholders   of   the   United    States   Silk   Conditioning   Co.,    1908 5 

A   Foreword    6 

Variation    in    Tests 7 

Photograph   showing  accurate   weighing  of   samples   at   United   States   Silk   Con- 
ditioning   Company,    New    York 7 A 

Conditioned    Weight    Certificate,    with    illustration    of   an    Invoice    for    10    bales 

bought  conditioned  weight,   or  conditioned  weight  plus  2   per  cent 8-11 

Xet    Weighing    Certificate    and    Remarks 12-13 

Sizing,  Twist,  and  Elasticity  and  Tenacity,   (breaking  strength)   Certificate,  with 

explanation    and    remarks 14-16 

Inspection    Test     17 

Boil-off  Certificates,  and  their  value  explained 1819 

.Measuring   Certificate,    and    its    use 20-21 

Value  of  the  Combination  Test  in  purchasing,   giving  Throwsters'  clearances...  22-23 

Value  of  tests   in   Dyeing,    illustrated 24-26 

The    Company's   Rules    and    Regulations,    when    handling    silk 26-28 

Metric    Equivalents — Measures    and    Weights 29 

Equivalents   of   Metric   Weights   in   pounds   and    decimals 30 

Equivalents   of    Pound    Weights    in    kilograms   and    decimals 31 

Equivalents  of  Ounces  in   decimals  of  the   pound 32 

International    Yarn    Tables— Preface 33 

Equivalents  of   Drams   and   Deniers.      Table   of   length,  of  yards  to   the- 

pound— Raw    and    Thrown 34-38 

Number  of  yards  to  the  pound  of  raw  silk  of  one  denier  (Rule  of  seven  fours)  39 
Table   of  length   of  yards  of  silk  to   the  pound   in   sizes   9/11    to   16/18   deniers, 

taking    the    average    of    the    sizes 40 

PART   II. 

Silk    Conditioning,    historically    considered 41-43 

Raw    Silk    Rules   of   the    American    Silk    Trade 44-49 

Classification  of  Raw   Silk  for  the   American   Silk  Trade,    1908 50 

Recommendations    as    to    Classification,    based    upon    standard    samples,    selected 

each     silk     season 50 

Throwsters'    Rules   of   the    American    Silk    Trade 51-52 

Customs    Prevailing   in    Skein    Silk    Dyeing 53-A5 

Manufacturers'   Cost  Sheets,   broad  weaves 56-59 

Manufacturers'    Cost    Sheets,    narrow    weaves 60 

Don'ts     61-62 

Index     6  -6fi 

The   Value  of  Conditioning 67 


RESOLUTION  OF  THE  BOARD  OF  MANAGERS  OF 
THE  SILK  ASSOCIATION  OF  AMERICA 

DESIGNATING  THE  UNITED  STATES   SILK  CONDITIONING   COM- 
PANY AS  THE  OFFICIAL  CONDITIONING  HOUSE 
FOR  THE  ASSOCIATION 

WHEREAS,  it  is  the  established  custom  in  the  silk  centers 
of  the  world  for  the  local  silk  associations  and  of  the  National 
Governments  to  designate  a  certain  silk  conditioning  works  as 
the  official  authority  and  source  of  information  in  making 
tests  of  silk  in  matters  of  moisture,  strength,  size,  boil-off, 
etc.,  and, 

WHEREAS,  it  is  believed  to  be  necessary  to  establish  an 
official  recognition  of  some  one  silk  conditioning  establishment 
in  the  United  States  as  a  governing  or  authoritative  source  of 
information  in  cases  of  dispute,  as  to  condition  of  raw  silk  or 
thrown  silks  coming  before  Arbitration  Committees  of  this 
Association,  and, 

WHEREAS,  we  deem  it  to  be  to  the  best  interests  of  the 
members  of  this  Association  to  recognize  the  United  States 
Silk  Conditioning  Company  for  this  purpose; 

Therefore,  be  it 

RESOLVED,  That  the  United  States  Silk  Conditioning  Com- 
pany be  and  hereby  is  designated  as  the  official 
conditioning  house  of  this  Association,  and  the 
Arbitration  Committee  of  the  Association,  which 
is  elected  by  this  Board,  is  hereby  informed  ac- 
cordingly. 

New  York,  May  22,  1908. 

Attest: 


Uniteb  States  £>tlk  (£onbittoning,  Company 

OFFICIAL  TESTING   HOUSE    FOR 

Ctye  Silk  association  of  Clmerica 

Certificate  oj 

Conbittoneb  IPeigbt 

Ho.  a    10,000 

Hen?  £Jor 

Certificate  f  or  irtr»  <L{ 
w-»      i 

Duplicate 
k         Jan._JlBt_t       ,qo9» 

Dhn  Doe,   New 
Richard  Roef 

York 

Patei 

i 

!.B.o-n 

Ny 

#550 

S 
(Dne* 
(Sros 
(0ro£ 

Care 

Jale  ^&P  ^aw 
s  tDeigljt       Cbs. 
>s  toeig^t      Kilos 
0.35       Kilos 
0.93        Kilos 

137. 
62. 

1. 

65 
~44 

28 

Paper  anb  Strings 
134.83   lbs-ruta> 

jigfyt             Kilos 

61. 

16 

Of  18  Skei 
useb.     IDfyicr;  re 
IDrjen  rebuceb  to 
^rom  tr-fjicfy  re 
toeigljt,    an    ab 

ab 
dssfc      1.9: 

loss 

ct? 

Ct? 

Stgneb  for  tl;e  Comyat 

its  taken   for  Conbition 

Cest..  1.2  .  were 

>eigr;eb  originally  ©rams, 
absolute  u?eigfyt  of  ©rams, 
suits,  for  tfye  abope  net 
solute    roeigfyt    of    Kilos 
b  \\%                      Kilos 
Conbttioneb   IDeigljt  Kilo= 

880. 
778. 

54. 

5. 

00 
30 

04 

94 

59. 

98 

*%  on  Het  XDeigtjt  Kilos 
Conbitioneb   H)eigl)t  Cbs 

1. 

18 

132. 

23 

arges  to  tfye  Consignor  $  .....     '          -  ._ 
ar^es  to  ttj'e  Consignee  $  .9..  •..**?.  

laboratories  : 

W2  anb  ^Z^  Broome  St.,  Hen?  york 

tflepbon?  Ho.  738  Sprinn. 

Conditioning  House  in  the  -world  attempts  at  present  to  grade,  classify 
or  raluc  silk. 


CONDITIONING  SILK  FOR  CORRECT 
WEIGHT 

By  its  very  nature,  raw  silk  is  an  article  which  is  capable  of  lending 
itself  successfully  to  misconception  or  deception.  Its  weight  varies  ac- 
cording to  climatic  conditions.  In  rainy  weather,  for  instance,  the  same 
silk  will  automatically  increase  in  weight  as  much  as  THREE  per  cent, 
over  its  weight  in  ordinary  dry  weather.  Because  of  its  power  to  absorb 
moisture  its  weight  CAN  be  still  further  increased  through  artificial 
means,  as  much  as  thirty  (30)  per  cent.  Silk  "conditioning,"  so  called,  de- 
termines the  ABSOLUTE  DRY  WEIGHT  of  silk,  and  to  this  weight 
so  ascertained  eleven  (11)  per  cent,  is  added  as  the  universal  standard 
to  represent  the  usual  absorption  of  moisture  from  the  normal  atmosphere. 

When  buying  a  specified  lot  of  raw  silk  it,  therefore,  becomes  im- 
portant to  know  the  true  AMOUNT  OF  FIBRE  AND  OF  ATMOS- 
PHERIC MOISTURE,  RESPECTIVELY,  contained  in  the  lot.  Not 
to  know  the  conditioned  weight  of  the  silk  you  are  buying  means  to  risk 
from  five  to  ten  or  more  cents  per  pound  on  your  purchase. 

1.  All    the   operations    of    weighing   are   made   by   two    persons,    one 
checking  the  other. 

2.  Subsequent  to  taking  the  gross  weight  of  the  bale,  which  is  the 
weight   in   the    shirt   with   bagging   and    ropes   removed,   the   opening   and 
unpacking  is  speedily  done  and  samples  are  taken  from  all  parts  of  the 
bale.     These  sample  skeins  are  divided  into  three  equal  lots,  each  of  these 
three  lots  to  represent  in  itself  the  bale  under  operation.  One  lot  for  con- 
ditioning test   should  not  be  under   300  grams  nor  over  500  grams,    (say 
10  to  20  ounces). 

All  tare  attached  to  the  silk,  (Shirts,  paper,  strings,  etc.)  is  reported 
separately. 

The  lacings  (capiures)  of  Grant-reeled  silk  are  not  considered  as 
tare,  if  kept  in  normal  size  (40  inches  to  one  skein). 

3.  The  three  sample  lots  are  at  once  weighed  net   on  two  different 
scales   and   by   two    different   persons,    within   one    decigram    (about    1J^ 
grains).     If  the  second  weighing  does  not  differ   from  the  first  by  more 
than  ll/2  decigrams,  (2.3148  grains),  the  first  weight  is  definite,  and  forms 
the  basis  for  the  calculation. 

4.  Two   of   the   three   sample   lots   are   submitted   to   Dessication    or 
Drying  out  in  the  conditioning  ovens  at  a  temperature  not  exceeding  140 
degrees   Centigrade,    (284   degrees    Fahrenheit),   and   weighed   within   one 
decigram,    (1.5432   grains).     The   weight   obtained    is    the   dry   weight    or 
absolute  weight. 

5.  If  the  difference  in  the  percentage  of  loss  of  the  two  lots  does  not 
exceed  l/2%   (half  per  cent.)   the  average  of  the  two  losses  constitutes  the 
basis  for  calculating  the  absolute  weight  of  the  whole  bale,   from  which 
the  conditioned  or  commercial  weight  is  obtained  by  adding  11%   for  al- 
lowed normal  moisture. 


Conditioning  Houses  supply  only  the  information  which  can  be  expressed 
in  figures. 


6.  If  the  difference  in  the  percentage  of  loss  of  the  two  lots  exceeds 
y2%   (half  per  cent.)   the  third  lot,  kept  in  reserve,  is  also  submitted  to 
the  dessication.     If  the  difference  in  the  percentage  of  loss  of  the  three 
lots  does  not  exceed  1%  (one  per  cent),  the  average  of  the  three  losses 
forms  the  basis  for  calculating  the  conditioned  weight  of  the  whole  bale. 

7.  In  case  the  maximum  difference  in  the  percentage  of  loss  of  all 
three  lots  should  exceed  1%  (one  per  cent.)  the  conditioning  operation  is 
inconclusive.     The  silk  has  then  to  be  spread  openly  during  48  hours  in 
order  to  obtain  uniformity  in  the  state  of  moisture.     A  new  operation  of 
conditioning  follows.     A  charge  for  both  operations  is  made. 

8.  All  calculating  operations  are  made  in  duplicate  by  different  per- 
sons, one  checking  the  other. 

ILLUSTRATION  : 


INVOICE. 

Sales  to  be  governed  by  Raw  Silk 
Rules,  adopted  by  Board  of  Man- 
agers of  the  Silk  Association  of 
America,  May  22,  1908. 

NEW  YORK,  Jan.  i,  1909. 
MR.  JOHN  DOE, 

N.  Y. 

Bought  of  RICHARD  ROE  &  CO. 
New  York 
Terms  Cash  less  3%. 

As  per  Contract  No.  999,  dated  Dec.  i,  1908. 

Payable  in  Gold  at  New  York.     Silk  bought  Conditioned  weight, 
plus  two  per  cent. 

JAPAN  FILATURE  No.  1. 

548-557—10  Bales  Silk. 

548  136.50 

9  137.00 

50  137.50 

1  137.50 

2  137.50 

3  137.00 

4  135.50 

5  137.50 

6  138.00 

7  138.00 

1372.00  gross  weight. 
Tare  2.26  per  B.       22.60 


1349.40  Ibs.   at  $4.00 — $5,397.60. 


10 


The  man  who  insists  upon  having  his  raw  silk  purchase  tested  for  absolute 
weight  intends  to  pay  his  bill;  he  is  watching  his  cost. 


Two  illustrations,  A  and  B,  follow,  showing  importance  of  this  test. 
Bales  as  follows  are  selected  for  test : 

(A)  548  136.50 
550             137.50 
553             137.00 
557             138.00 

Total       549.00  gross  weight. 
Conditioning   tickets    show   Total   526   Ibs.    Conditioned   weight   for 

the  four  bales. 
Then,  by  simple  proportion, 

549          :          526  : :  1372          :  x 

Gross  Wt.        Cond.  Wt.  Gross  Wt.        Con.  Wt.  whole  lot. 

This  reduced  equals  526X1372=721672-=-549=1314.52  Cond.  Wt.  whole 

+2%         26.29  [ten  bales. 

1340.81  Limit  of  amount 

[to  be  paid  for. 

Bill   calls   for 1349.40  Ibs.  at  $4.00    $5,397.60 

Limit    1340.81  Ibs. 

Adjustment  claim  against  seller....  8.50  Ibs.  at  $4.00  34.36 

(A)  final   bill $5,363.24 

(B)  Suppose  the  same  four  bales  selected  had  dried  out  one  pound  each. 

Then  gross  bill  weight  becomes 1368.00  Ibs. 

Gross  test  bale  weight  becomes 545.00  Ibs. 

Bill  will  call  for 1345.40  Ibs. 

Then  by  simple  proportion, 

545    :  526     : :     1368   :  x  ^conditioned  weight  whole  lot. 
The  conditioned  weight  of  the 'bales  is  obviously  the  same. 
Reduced,  526X1368=719568-^-545=1320.30  Cond.  Wt.  whole  ten  bales. 
-f2%=     26.40 

1346.70  limit  to  be  paid  for. 

Bill  now  calls  for 1345.40  Ibs.  at  $4.00    $5,381.60 

But  Conditioned  Weight  plus  2% ....     1346.70  Ibs. 

Bill  as  above 1345.40  Ibs. 

Adjustment  claim  in  favor  of  seller. . .           1.30  Ibs.  at  $4.00  5.20 

Final  bill  $5,386.80 

(B)  Final  bill  $5,386.80 

(A)     Final  bill  5,363.24 

Loss  to  buyer  from  selecting  only  four  bales  out  of  ten $     23.56 

To  have  conditioned  the  whole  ten  bales  would  cost  buyer  and  seller 
each  $5.00,  and  all  uncertainty  removed. 

NOTE. — Always  get  an  invoice  for  each  bale,  either  gross  or  net.  After  receipt 
of  these  weights  select  for  conditioning  at  random  to  avoid  wet  or  dry  bale.  This  is 
most  important. 

To  get  conditioned  weights  of  every  bale  prevents  error  and  is  the 
only  sure  way  to  know  exactly  what  you  receive.  (See  Combination  Test, 
page  22.) 

One  hundred  pounds  absolute  weight  plus  11%  equals  one  hundred  and  eleven 
pounds — conditioned  weight.  Conditioned  weight  of  the  same  silk  plus  2%  equals 
113.22  pounds.  Therefore  while  conditioned  weight  is  obtained  by  adding  11%  to 
absolute  dry  weight,  conditioned  weight  plus  2%  contains  13.22%  of  moisture,  added 
to  absolute  dry  weight,  inasmuch  as  the  2%  is  added  to  the  conditioned  weight  which 
has  been  already  included. 


11 


UnitebStates  Silk  <£onbittomng  Company 

OFFICIAL  TESTING   HOUSE    FOR 

Cfye  StIR  association  of  Ctmerica. 


Certificate  for  Het  IPeigfyt 


tto.  €  Duplicate 

HetD  york, .^11 1st. ^  0  9 

Xecetreb  from  mw^  Mr.    John  Doe. 


4     Japan  Raw 


Ittarfc  anft  lumber        :  ©ross 


549 
651 
554 
556 
Kilos 


68 


66, 


69, 
68 


272, 


19 


68 


21 


93 


Care  Paper  anb  :7rt 

Strings 


2. 


10 


63 


64 
69 
64 


60 


65 


64, 


66, 


66, 


04 


Uet  Kilos 


Charges,  $1.00 


Signeb  for  tb*  Co. 


laboratories 


262.33 


Net 

(Equals  Sbs. 

In  shirt 


Broome  St., 


578.33 


None  overlook  a  2^/2  per  cent  discount.     Why  should  you  risk  a  loss  of 
2^/2  per  cent,  on  your  cost? 


WEIGHING  BALES  in  SHIRTS  or  WEIGHING 

BALES  WITH  TARE,  I.  E.,  FREE  FROM 

SHIRT,  PAPER  AND  STRINGS 

When  five  bales  of  silk  have  been  carefully  weighed  in  this  manner 
and  two  bales  have  then  been  conditioned,  the  estimated  total  conditioned 
weight  of  the  entire  five  bales  will  be  much  more  exact  than  if  the  original 
invoice,  or  other  weight,  is  used  as  a  basis. 


13 


Uniteb  States  Silk  Conditioning  (Company 

OFFICIAL  TESTING  HOUSE   FOR 

Cfye  Silk  Ctssoctation  of  Cunertca. 


Certificate  for 


5150, 

(Elasticity  &  tenacity 


Ho.  D    2500  Duplicate 

Hew  JJork,.      __«Lan._lst4__j9  09  . 

Certificate  for  ZTtessrs.  ,JLQhn__Poe,    New 

Richard  Roey  Paterson. 
#550  " 


for  Cest  mabe  on  sample  of    Jap.    Haw          15  skeins 


FIRST   TWIST        SECOND    TWIST 


11 

12 

12 

12}* 

13 

13 

13}* 

13}* 

14 


14M 

14}* 
14}* 
14}* 

15 
15 
15 
15 
15 
15 


15 

15 


16 
16 
16 


17 
17 


238 
234 
232 
230 
230 
230 
222 
218 
214 
210 


54 
55 
62 
65 
65 
60 
49 
52 
46 
45 


Total  Addition    436  •  5 
tal  Weight       435.0 


>n  Actual  Weight  ) 


± 


Average  Si.y  ) 

on  Condition  Weight  \ 


First  7V/.v/.  Turns  per  inch 

Second  Tvist.  Turns  per  inch 

Elasticity    224.8 
Tenacity         54  •  4 


Signed  for  the  Company, 


Average  Number  of    Thousand 
Yards  per  Pound     307  .  5 


Charges,  $  1.75 


N.  *B.  ;    The  samples  are  450  metres  long^cighed  in  half  Decigram     The 
average  si<e  is  calculated  Ol,  the  Mai  weight  taken  before  the  partial  u-tigbtl. 

(Elasticity  in  millimetres.  tenacity  in  ©rams. 


laboratories:   172  anb  m  Broom*  St.,  n*tw 


The  wise  man  as  well  as  the  foolish  man  knows  there  is  always  a  chance 

for  mistakes.     The  wise  man  is  he  who  uses  available 

tests  to  avoid  mistakes. 


SIZING 


To  buy  raw  silk  without  having  it  sized  at  the  Conditioning  House 
means  a  variation  of  perhaps  five  per  cent,  or  more  in  the  cost  of  your 
merchandise,  due  to  heavier  or  lighter  goods,  the  requiring  of  more  or  less 
picks,  etc. 

The  fineness  of  silk  is  determined  by  the  size.  The  size  is  the  number 
of  deniers  which  a  skein  of  a  certain  length  weighs.  The  legal  denier 
is  a  skein  of  silk  four  hundred  and  fifty  meters  long,  (about  500  yards), 
wound  in  four  hundred  turns  on  a  reel  of  one  hundred  and  twelve  and 
one-half  centimeters  in  circumference,  (about  44")  and  weighed  by  a 
unit  of  five  centigrams,  about  7^  grains,  (called  DENIER).  The  length 
of  silk  in  a  pound  of  one  denier  size  will  therefore  be  4,464,528  yards. 
This  figure  divided  by  the  number  of  deniers  that  any  silk  may  be  in  size 
will  give  the  yards  per  pound  that  it  measures. 

To  establish  the  size  of  a  lot  of  silk,  ten  skeins  are  taken  from  every 
bale  and  from  different  parts  of  the  bale,  and  from  each  skein  three  test 
skeins,  of  450  meters  each,  (called  FLOTTILONS)  are  reeled  off. 

The  conditioned  size  is  obtained  by  reducing  the  test  skeins  to  the 
absolute  dry  weight,  and  adding  11%  (eleven  per  cent.)  of  allowed 
moisture.  For  such  additional  test,  a  charge  of  50  cents  is  made. 

The  above  is  the  Regular  Sizing  and  shows  the  "Spring"  or  "Varia- 
tion," (in  French  called  "Ecart")  of  the  silk,  i.  e.,  the  maximum  of  uneven- 
ness  of  the  highest  and  lowest  sizing  skeins,  but  as  a  bale  of  silk  contains 
from  30  to  65  million  yards,  and  the  Regular  test  only  tries  out  approxi- 
mately fifteen  thousand  yards ;  a  new  Compound  Sizing  Test  has  been 
authorized,  taking  about  one  hundred  thousand  yards,  from  twenty  original 
skeins  of  the  bale,  to  get  more  closely  at  the  Average  size  of  the  whole 
bale.  Four  thousand  five  hundred  meters,  (about  5,000  yards),  are  reeled, 
from  each  of  the  twenty  original  skeins  and  reported  in  deniers. 

The  regular  test  is  valuable  for  Quality  as  it  shows  the  Coarse  and 
Fine  ends.  The  Compound  test  is  valuable  for  the  Average  size,  and  as  a 
basis  to  pay  for  Throwing;  also  as  a  test  to  know  the  yards  of  goods  a 
given  number  of  pounds  conditioned  weight  Raw  should  make,  (see  table 
page  34). 


15 


Conditioning  certificate  expresses  physical  characteristics  of  silk  to  guide 
the  oivner  in  appraising  quality,  grade,  and  -value. 


TWIST  TESTS 

Twist  tests,  and  Elasticity  and  Tenacity,  are  reported  on  the  same 
certificate  as  sizing. 

Twist  tests  are  made  on  one-half  meter  length,  (about  19^4  inches), 
and  reported  both  in  meters  and  inches  for  convenience. 

Ten  per  cent,  average  variation  either  way  from  twist  as  ordered  is 
allowed.  (See  Throwsters  Rules,  Article  III). 

In  Europe  a  maximum  variation  of  20  to  25%  is  allowed  on  first  time 
twist  and  about  20%  on  second  time  twist.  As  the  machinery  in  the 
United  States  is  of  entirely  different  type  larger  variation  is  allowable  here. 
In  tying  up  the  ends,  a  large  increase  of  twist  necessarily  occurs  which 
afterwards  spreads  each  way  along  the  thread.  For  this  reason  tests  should 
never  be  made  near  knots  in  the  thrown  silk,  and  numerous  and  careful 
tests  are  necessary  to  show  exact  conditions  as  to  twist,  although  a  single 
set  of  tests  will  generally  serve  to  give  a  fair  idea  of  the  work  done  in  the 
Throwing. 

ELASTICITY  AND  TENACITY  TESTS 

Elasticity,  and  Tenacity,  (breaking  strength),  tests  are  reported  on  one 
meter  length,  (39.37  inches),  Elasticity  in  millimeters  and  Tenacity  in 
grams. 

NOTE. — There  are  no  strictly  determined  relations  between  the  grad- 
ings  of  silk  and  the  tenacity  and  elasticity  that  they  exhibit.  There  are 
so  many  factors  influencing  the  silk  thread  from  the  time  the  worm  spins 
its  cocoon  until  the  finished  raw  silk  thread  is  produced,  that  a  closely 
defined  scale  for  the  elasticity  and  strength  of  thread  that  the  different 
grades  should  possess  is  impracticable. 

The  following  table  gives  approximately,  for  general  guidance,  the 
Elasticity  and  Tenacity  to  be  reasonably  expected  for  the  different  grades 
of  silk. 

Elasticity:  25%  average  stretch  is  a  very  good  result. 

20%         "  "        is  a  good  result. 

18-20%         "  "        is  a  fair  result, 

under  18%         "  "        is  a  poor  result. 

Tenacity:    (Breaking  strength). 

The  average  size  in  deniers  multiplied  by  four  is  a  very  good  result, 
by  y/z,  a  good  result, 
by  3,       a  fair  result, 
under  3,       a  poor  result. 

The  elasticity  and  breaking  strength  of  thrown  silk  may  be  greater 
or  less  than  that  of  the  raw  silk  from  which  it  has  been  produced.  A 
variation  of  10%,  on  the  average,  may  cover  the  difference  to  be  looked 
for,  figured  in  terms  of  single  thread. 


"-very  unnecessary  cent  of  cost  retards  business  progress. 


INSPECTION  TEST 

This  new  test  was  recently  authorized  by  the  Executive  Committee  of 
the  Conditioning  Company  on  account  of  the  new  raw  silk  rules  regard- 
ing CLAIMS  FOR  DIFFERENCES  IN  QUALITY  AND/OR  SIZE, 
which  require  that  the  buyer  must  accept  or  reject  a  lot  within  two 
weeks  after  delivery.  (See  page  48.) 

A  charge  of  $5.00  is  made  on  from  one  to  five  bales.  The  authorized 
agent  of  the  Conditioning  Company  removes  twenty  sample  skeins  from 
the  bales,  drawn  as  evenly  as  possible  from  different  parts  of  each  bale, 
at  the  Storage  House. 

These  twenty  skeins  are  then  submitted  to  the  compound  sizing  test 
so  that  the  average  size  will  be  disclosed.  About  one  thousand  yards  is 
then  wound  off  of  each  of  the  twenty  original  skeins  and  made  into 
standard  two-thread  Tram  or  Organzine,  without  soaking.  The  ten  small 
skeins  of  about  one  thousand  yards  each  of  the  two-thread  thrown  silk 
are  then  boiled-off  by  the  exact  method  for  that  test,  namely: — boiling  twice 
for  one-half  hour  each  in  a  separate  solution  of  soap,  the  quantity  of  soap 
in  each  solution  to  be  25%  of  the  weight  of  the  silk.  These  small  samples 
are  then  returned  to  the  party  in  interest  with  the  compound  sizing  ticket 
for  his  inspection,  and  give  a  very  fair  average  impression  as  to  the 
quality  of  the  silk. 

It  is  believed  that  this  test  will  be  of  particular  advantage  to  both 
buyer  and  seller  as  it  should  avoid  a  great  deal  of  trouble  where  silks  are 
needed  for  special  uses.  When  made  in  conjunction  with  the  combina- 
tion test,  the  sizing  need  not  be  duplicated,  and  the  price  of  this  test 
is,  therefore,  reduced  to  $2.50. 

The  value  of  this  test  will  be  better  appreciated  by  those  who  have 
read  the  pamphlet  entitled  "Ravelings  (or  lousiness)  of  Dyed  Silks,"  pub- 
lished by  the  Silk  Association  of  America,  which  is  a  translation  from  the 
report  of  the  Laboratory  for  Silk  Testing  of  the  Silk  Conditioning  House 
of  Milan,  1905.  From  this  pamphlet  we  quote  as  follows : 

"Practice  has  demonstrated  that  the  presence  of  100  to  150  "nibs"  (fiocchetti)  per 
each  thousand  metres  in  thread  used  for  material  ordinarily  manufactured,  does  not 
damage  the  appearance  of  the  fabric  and  it  is  only  when  the  nibs  amount  to  several 
hundred  that  the  effect  becomes  disastrous.  As  the  success  of  many  facbrics  is  de- 
pendent on  the  judicious  selection  of  the  raw  silk  used,  and  the  exterior  appearance 
of  the  raw  silk  does  not  give  a  reliable  indication  about  its  susceptibility  to  take  on 
dyes  uniformly  and  to  produce  the  required  results,  the  manufacturer  can  only  resort 
to  the  direct  examination  of  a  small  sample,  and  submitting  it  to  tests  calculated  to 
ascertain  the  quality  of  the  silk  which  he  proposes  to  use. 

"Especially  when  the  purchase  is  of  silk  of  unknown  origin  or  when  new  articles 
are  to  be  manufactured,  it  would  be  always  advisable  to  have  a  trial  of  ungumming  in 
two  successive  3%  soap  baths  and  for  the  duration  of  half  an  hour,  as  is  practiced  in 
conditioning  establishments  for  official  trials  of  boiling  off. 

"It  is  clear  that  the  silk  which  can  stand  the  usual  operation  of  boiling  off  will 
resist  even  better  when  the  dyer  shall  have  applied  the  improvements  which  we  shall 
mention  further  on.  In  the  dye-shop  the  boiling  off  is  usually  performed  at  a  tempera- 
ture below  100  degrees  C.  and  with  two  soap  baths,  the  first  of  which  is  prepared  with 
30  to  33%  of  soap  to  the  weight  of  the  silk,  and  the  second  with  one-half.  For  silks 
that  are  to  be  dyed  in  dark  colors  the  second  bath  is  not  infrequently  used  for  the 
ungumming  of  a  subsequent  parcel." 


Mistakes  are  among  the  things  that  are  not  governed  by  the  law  of  supply 
and  demand. 


Unitcb  States  Silk  <£on6itioning  Company 

OFFICIAL  TESTING   HOUSE   FOR 

Ctje  Silk  association  of  Clmerica. 


Certificate  for  Boiling 


Ho.  B   2000 


Hem 


Duplicate 
•  ........  1st, 


consigneb  for   Boiling  Off 


Sample     J^p   Saw  IPeigbt  ©rams 

from  10   skeins   Net    113.  ,3 


results    in    an 
absolute  meigfyt 
Before  boil-off,  ©rams 
Ctfter  boil=off,     ©rams 

Coss  in  botl'Off,  ©rams 


102. 
83. 


19. 


Ctjat  is  to  say 


18.87% 


Charges 


$1.00 


Signeb  for 


laboratories:   \12  anb  4 74  Broome  St.,  Hen>  york 

Ho.  73«  Spring. 


When  you  find  that  your  conditioning  tests  continue  to  prove  satisfactory, 

you  should  remember  that  you  are  thereby  safe-guarding 

yourself  against  mistakes. 


BOIL- OFF 


The  boil-off  test  on  raw  and  thrown  silk  shows  the  loss  of  gum, 
soap,  oil,  or  other  soluble  substance,  which  the  silk  sustains  by  boiling 
twice,  for  one-half  hour  each  time  in  separate  solutions  of  soap.  The 
quantity  of  soap  in  each  solution  to  be  25%  (twenty-five  per  cent.)  of  the 
absolute  weight  of  the  silk  and  the  quantity  of  water  to  be  standard  pro- 
portion. The  sample  to  be  tested  is  reduced  to  the  absolute  weight  be- 
fore and  after  the  boiling-off.  From  the  difference  between  these  two 
weights  the  percentage  of  loss  is  computed. 

To  buy,  and  have  thrown,  raw  silk  without  having  the  boil-off  test 
of  the  Raw  and  Thrown  applied  by  the  Conditioning  House  may  mean 
a  loss  of  ten  cents  per  pound  without  your  being  aware  of  it,  either  in  the 
Raw,  the  Throwing,  or  the  Dyeing  of  the  silk. 

The  boil-off  of  the  raw  and  thrown  silk  should  be  tested  simultaneously 
in  the  same  process,  according  to  Throwsters'  Rules,  Article  IX,  on  de- 
termination of  loss.  See  page  52. 

The  boil-off  test  is  unlike  the  one  made  by  the  dyer,  who  may  strip 
more  or  less  gum  than  the  Conditioning  House,  as  he  finds  wise  and 
necessary,  but  it  represents  the  standard  test  and  is  always  made  with 
the  same  proportion  of  soap  and  water  and  boiled  for  exactly  the  same 
length  of  time,  so  that  all  tests  will  be  comparative  and  standard. 

The  real  value  of  all  silk  is  and  must  be  based  on  the  Conditioned 
Weight  Boiled-Off  Thrown  Silk.  This  is  what  you  get,  though  few  will 
compare  costs  to  ascertain  this  only  Real  Value. 

The  value  of  the  raw  silk,  the  waste  made  in  throwing,  the  proper 
weighting  to  be  used  in  the  dyeing,  and  the  very  "goodness  of  the  goods" 
are  controlled  by  knowing  the  conditioned  weight  of  the  boiled-off  thrown 
silk.  Variable  starting  points  on  the  other  hand,  (like  Thrown  Actual 
Ticket  Weight  for  Dyeing)  cause  loss  and  trouble  continually. 

The  value  of  the  Raw  and  Thrown  Silk  boil-offs  is  illustrated  on 
page  23,  showing  the  clearance  of  the  lot  when  returned  from  the 
Throwster,  and  on  page  24,  showing  the  discrepancies  in  Dyeing. 


Unttefc  States  Silk  Conditioning  Company 

OFFICIAL  TESTING   HOUSE   FOR 

Silk  association  of  america. 
'Certificate^f^ngt^ 


Ho.  £  2000  Duplicate 

Jan. ls.t.t \9  09 . 

Certificate  for  IHessrs John Dpe, New   York., 

Richard  Roe., Patersoiu 

for  test  mabe  on J.apan   Tram.. 

inatbs,   tic. 

i s.6.7.9 ^.:LU 9.7.54 ab5:; 


Cotal  ( 


2^  J.. 9.815.. 
Cotalj 


\st 


19,707     I 


9854  )jh 


Signcb  for  the  Co. 


Charges  $1.00 


Caboratoiies:   472  anb  ^7^  ^roome  St.,  lltw 

ttelevhonf  Ho.  7.3H  Spring. 


Universal  use  of  conditioning  tests  will  eliminate  unfair  and  unintelligent 

competition  from  all  branches  of  the  business  and  is  in  the 

line  of  true  costing  of  silk  merchandise. 


MEASURING  LENGTHS  OF  SKEINS 


We  present  on  page  40  a  table  which  will  be  found  very  useful  in 
this  connection.  This  table  deals  with  silks  running  from  9/11  deniers  to 
16/18  deniers  and  presents  the  number  of  yards  per  pound  for  the  two 
allowable  extremes  of  each  size  in  raw  silk  thrown  without  soaking  (in 
which  a  take  up  of  3%  for  twist  should  be  figured  on)  and  in  raw  silk 
thrown  with  soaking,  the  additions  to  the  weight  from  soap  and  oil 
of  1,  2,  3,  4,  5,  6  and  7%,  in  addition  to  the  3%  of  take  up  in  twist  in 
each  case. 

If  the  compound  sizing  test  shows  for  instance  that  a  lot  of  raw  silk 
runs  300,000  yards  to  the  pound  and  if  this  is  thrown  into  two-thread 
organzine  with  approximately  3%  allowance,  as  in  Europe,  for  the  shorten- 
ing due  to  twist,  and  if  the  difference  between  the  boil-off  raw  and  the 
boil-off  thrown  is  shown  to  be  4%  the  number  of  yards  given  in  the  Table 
marked  No.  7  will  show,  (always  in  terms  of  single  thread  of  course)  what 
the  thrown  silk  should  measure  per  pound. 

These  measuring  tests  are  also  of  special  value  to  the  makers  of  spool 
or  twist  silks,  and  their  customers. 

Those  manufacturers  who  use  much  cotton  yarn,  particularly  in  fine 
counts,  whether  domestic  or  imported,  will  find  it  of  much  importance  to 
have  the  Conditioning  House  test  the  weights  and  yards  per  pound  of  the 
yarns  delivered  to  them. 

In  fine  numbers  a  difference  in  the  count  means  a  considerable  differ- 
ence in  the  price,  and  any  one  wishing  to  know  that  he  is  getting  what 
he  is  paying  for  can  only  be  sure  of  it  by  having  the  size  of  his  yarns, 
on  a  conditioned  basis,  tested  by  the  Conditioning  House. 

To  see  that  the  skeins  delivered  are  of  standard  length  measuring  tests 
should  also  be  made. 


21 


Your  most  unsatisfactory  competitor  is  he  who  only  believes  his  "cost  is 
loiv,"  but  who  doesn't  know. 


COMBINATION  TEST 


This  is  by  far  the  most  valuable  and  eventually  the  cheapest  method 
of  testing  all  silk,  as  it  gives  the  Conditioned  Weight  Raw.  the  Con- 
ditioned Weight  Thrown,  the  Boil-off  Raw  and  the  Boil-off  Thrown, 
also  the  sizing  from  each  bale;  and  on  five  or  more  bales  the  option  is 
given  on  each  five  to  have  three  Regular  sizings  and  one  Compound  sizing 
made  under  this  test.  With  this  information  the  purchased  weight,  re- 
turns from  the  Throwster,  Boil-off  for  your  instructions  to  dyers,  size  for 
paying  Throwster  and  controlling  the  manufacture  of  the  goods,  are  all 
obtained  in  the  most  definite  possible  manner  at  the  low  cost  of  $17.50 
for  five  bales,  probably  worth  $2,500.00.  We  believe  this  should  be  par- 
ticularly attractive  to  all  American  manufacturers.  Part  of  the  tests  for 
conditioned  weight  are  already  by  agreement  in  the  new  rules  payable  by  the 
seller,  so  that  in  the  end  the  cost  to  the  manufacturer  is  further  reduced. 

When  ordered  to  include  the  Inspection  Test  a  total  charge  of  $20.00 
for  five  bales  will  be  made,  as  the  sizing  test  will  not  need  to  be  duplicated. 

In  making  the  Combination  Test  all  the  Raw  bales  are  sent  to  the 
Conditioning  House,  where  the  bales  are  tested  for  Conditioned  Weight, 
and  samples  are  removed  for  sizing,  (and  Inspection  test  when  desired). 
Samples  of  Raw  are  reserved  for  Boiling-off,  marked  with  the  lot  number 
and  held  in  reserve  until  the  throwing  is  completed.  The  raw  is  at  once 
shipped  away  for  Throwing.  As  soon  as  one  bale,  (6  to  8  bundles),  is 
thrown,  it  is  returned  to  the  Conditioning  Works  and  tested  for  Con- 
ditioned Weight  Thrown ;  small  samples  are  removed  for  boiling  off,  and 
the  bale  forwarded  to  the  Dyer  or  Owner  to  avoid  delay.  Each  bale,  as 
thrown,  is  treated  in  like  manner,  and  when  all  are  finished,  the  samples 
of  Raw  and  Thrown  are  Boiled  off  together  in  the  same  baths,  as  this  test 
is  uncertain  if  done  at  different  times.  (See  Art.  IX,  Trowsters'  Rules, 
page  52.) 

When  the  Conditioned  Weight  and  Boil-off  of  all  the  raw  silk,  and 
the  Conditioned  Weight  and  Boil-off  Thrown  of  all  the  thrown  silk  is 
thus  determined,  the  clearance  like  that  following  is  made  and  the  loss 
determined. 

To  test  part  of  the  Raw  or  Thrown  is  inconclusive  as  silk  varies 
rapidly  in  weight,  and  the  parcels  tested  may  be  too  dry  or  too  wet  to 
properly  represent  the  whole  lot. 

The  ten  bale  purchase  on  page  10  is  supposed  to  be  sent  to  two 
throwsters,  A  and  B. 


The  dealer  or  manufacturer  who  is  credited  with  having  loyally  accepted 

conditioning  tests  as  his  standards  in  his  transactions  will  not  be  idle; 

he  will  be  busy,  when  others,  who  have  not  adopted  them,  are  idle. 


Conditioned  Weight  is 1314.52  Pounds. 

Both  throwsters  report  Opening  Weight 1350.00 

Throwster  A.  Returns 1363.00  Pounds. 

Opening  weight 1350.00 

Boil-off  Raw         20%  <   „ 

n   -i     ce  TI  ^^    \-  Gain         13.00 

Boil-off  Thrown  26%   f 

Throwster  B.  Reports  Opening  Weight....      1350.00  Pounds. 
Returns 1345.00 

Boil-off  Raw          20%   | 
Boil-off  Thrown  24%    f  L< 

Throwster  A. 's  Clearance.  Conditioned  Weight  Raw 1314.52  Pounds. 

Conditioned   Weight   Thrown.      1360.00         " 

Conditioned  Weight  Raw 1314.52 

Boil-off  Raw  20% 262.91 

Boil-off   Raw   Silk...  1051.61         1051.61 


Conditioned  Weight  Thrown 1360.00 

Boil-off  Thrown,   26% 353.60 

Boil-off    Thrown...  1006.40         1006.40 


Loss    45.21 

45.21—1051.61=4  3/10  per  cent,  of  loss  made. 

Throwster  B.'s  Clearance.    Conditioned  Weight  Raw..      1314.52 
Boil-off  Raw  20% 262.91 


Boil-off   Raw    Silk 1051.61         1051.61 

Conditioned  Weight  Thrown 1353.00 

Boil-off  Thrown  24% 324.72 

1028.28         1028.28 


Loss     23.33 

23.33-M051. 61=2  2/10  per  cent,  of  loss  made. 

N.  B. — Note  carefully  that  in  these  instances  it  will  be  seen  how  the 
man  who  has  given  back  18  pounds  more  than  the  other  has  really  made 
nearly  twice  as  much  loss. 


Persistent  unreliable  estimates  of  cost  spell  bankruptcy. 


VALUE  OF  TESTS  IN  DYEING 

Few  manufacturers  realize  what  an  important  difference  may  result 
in  the  cost  of  their  dyeing,  and  in  the  percentage  of  their  weighting,  from 
a  lack  of  knowledge  of  the  Boil-off  of  their  Thrown  Silk. 

We  invite  careful  attention  to  the  following : 

BOIL-OFF  IN  DYEING.  Showing  that  variations  may  result  in 
practice  if  Conditioned  Weight,  and  Boil  off  Thrown  certificates  are  not 
used  as  the  basis  of  computation. 

The  following  ilustrations  are  all  based  on  100  Ibs.  of  Conditioned 
Weight  Thrown  Silk.  The  Boil-off  in  each  of  these  cases  being  20%, 
leaves  80  pounds  of  Conditioned  Weight  Boiled-off  Thrown  Silk. 

The  100  pounds  Conditioned  Weight  is  supposed  to  weigh  103  and 
105  pounds,  scale  or  ticket  weight,  for  the  purpose  of  this  illustration.  The 
cost  of  Dyeing  and  the  returns  are  shown  for 

I.     Pure  dye  at  30c.  per  pound. 
II.     16  oz.  dye  at  50c.  per  pound. 

III.  24  oz.  dye  at  80c.  per  pound. 

IV.  32  oz.  dye  at  $1.00  per  pound. 
V.     48  oz.  dye  at  $1.50  per  pound. 

I.  Pure  Dye  at  30c.  per  pound. 

105  Ibs.  at  30c $31.50 

103  "  "  "  30.90 

100  "  "  "  (Conditioned  Weight) 30.00 

Conditioned  Weight  saves  $1.50. 

80  Ibs.  of  Boiled-off  Silk  Dyed.     Saving  5%. 

II.  16  oz.  Dye  at  50  c.  per  Ib. 

Silk         Weighting  Return  Bill 

A.  105  Ibs.  at  50c 80         +         25         =         105  $52.50 

B.  103    "  "    80         -f         23         =         103  51.50 

C.  100    "  "    80         -(-         20         =         100  50.00 

5  Ibs.  weight  gained  on  A.  for  $2.50— 50c.  per  Ib.  no  saving. 

3  Ibs.  weight  gained  on  B.  for  $1.50— 50c.  per  Ib.  no  saving. 

III.  24  oz.  Dye  at  80c.  per  pound. 

Silk         Weighting        Return          Bill 

A.     105  Ibs.  at  80c 80         +       77V2       =       157^  $84.00 

B-     103    "  "    80         +       74^       =       154^  82.40 

C.     100    "  "    80         +       70  =       150  80.00 

1l/2  Ibs.  gain  on  A.  for  $4.00  saves  $2.00—2^%  on  dyeing. 

4^  Ibs.  gain  on  B.  for  $2.40  saves  $1.20— 1J4 %  on  dyeing. 

%  Weighting  on  original  80  Ibs.  silk,  A — 96.8% 

%  Weighting  on  original  80  Ibs.  silk,  B — 93.1% 

%  Weighting  on  original  80  Ibs.  silk,  C — 87.5% 


The  most  dangerous  competitors  are  those  who  take  things  for  granted. 


IV.     32  oz.  Dye  at  $1.00  per  pound. 

Silk 

Weighting         Return 

Bill 

A. 

105  Ibs.  at  $1.00.  .  .  . 

..      80 

+        130        = 

210 

$105.00 

B. 

103    "       "       "      .  .  .  . 

..      80 

+         126        = 

206 

103.00 

C. 

100    "       "       "      .... 

..      80 

+        120        = 

200 

100.00 

10  Ibs.  gain  on  A.  for  $5.00  saves  $5.00 — 5%  on  dyeing. 
6  Ibs.  gain  on  B.  for  $3.00  saves  $3.00 — 3%  on  dyeing. 

%  Weighting  on  original  80  Ibs.  silk,  A— 162l/2%. 
%  Weighting  on  original  80  Ibs.  silk,  B— 157J4% 
%  Weighting  on  original  80  Ibs.  silk,  C— 150% 


V.     48  oz.  Dye  at  $1.50  per  pound. 

A.  105  Ibs.  at  $1.50. 

B.  103    "       "       "     . 

C.  100    "       "       "      . 


Silk 

80 

80 


Weighting 
+        235        = 
+         229        = 

_|_  220  := 


Return 
315 
309 
300 


Bill 

$157.50 
154.50 
150.00 


15  Ibs.  gain  on  A.  for  $7.50  saves  $15.00 — 10%  on  dyeing. 
9  Ibs.  gain  on  B.  for  $4.50  saves  $  9.00—  6%  on  dyeing. 

%  Weighting  on  original  80  Ibs.  silk,  A — 293^4%. 
%  Weighting  on  original  80  Ibs.  silk,  B— 286*4%. 
%  Weighting  on  original  80  Ibs.  silk,  C. — 275%. 

Therefore : 

So  long  as  the  price  of  dyeing  is  based  on  ticket  bundle  or  actual 
weight,  the  manufacturer  will,  as  illustrated,  find  it  profitable  to  arrange 

that 

I.     All  silk  of  16  oz.  dye  and  under  should  be  soaked  lightly  in  throw- 
ing and  kept  very  dry. 

II.     All   silk   for   16   oz.    dye   and   over   should   be   soaked   heavily   in 
throwing  and  kept  moist. 

To  know  the  real  return,  however,  the  Conditioned  Weight  Boiled- 
off  Thrown  Silk  must  be  used  as  the  basis  of  figuring  or  your  silk  may 
be  over-weighted  10%  or  more  without  your  being  aware  of  it. 

All  this  information  for  $3.50  per  bale,  worth  $500  to  $1,000. 


25 


All  tests  made  by  numbers — mvncr  of  silk  unknown  to  employees. 


RULES  AND  REGULATIONS 
HANDLING  SILK 


FOR 


(Subject  to  addition  or  alteration  as  required,  due   notice   of  which  will 
be  given.) 


CONDITIONING 

1.  Absolute  secrecy  of  all  tests  is  the  first  rule  of  this  establishment. 

2.  All    the   operations    of   weighing   are   made   by   two   persons,    one 
checking  the  other. 

3.  Subsequent  to   taking  the   gross   weight  of  the   bale,   the   opening 
and  unpacking  is  speedily  done  and  samples  are  taken  from  all  parts  of 
the  bale.     1  hese  sample  skeins  are  divided  into  three  equal  lots,  each  of 
these  three  lots  to   represent  in  itself  the  bale  under  operation.     One  lot 
for  conditioning  test  should  not  be  under  300  grams  nor  over  500  grams. 

Tare  attached  to  the  silk  (paper  and  strings)   is  reported  separately. 
The  lacing  (capiures)  of  Grant-reeled  silk  are  not  considered  as  tare, 
if  kept  in  normal  size  (40  inches  to  one  skein). 

4.  The  three  sample  lots  are  at  once  weighed  net   on  two  different 
scales  and  by  two  different  persons,  within  one  decigram.     If  the  second 
weighing  does  not  differ  from  the  first   by  more  than   \l/2  decigram,   the 
first  weight  is  definite,  and  form  the  basis  for  the  calculation. 

5.  Two  of  the  three  sample  lots  are  submitted  to  Desiccation  or  Dry- 
ing  out   in   the   conditioning  ovens   at    a   temperature    not   exceeding   140 
degrees   Centigrade  and   weighed   within   one  decigram.     The   weight   ob- 
tained is  the  dry-weight  or  absolute  weight. 

6.  If  the  difference  in  the  percentage  of  loss  of  the  two  lots  does  not 
exceed   l/2%    (half  per   cent.),   the   average   of   the   two   losses   constitutes 
the  basis  for  calculating  the  absolute  weight  of  the  whole  bale,  from  which 
the   conditioned   or   commercial   weight    is    obtained   by   adding    11%    for 
allowed  normal  moisture. 

7.  If   the   difference   in   the   percentage   of   loss   of   the   two   lots   ex- 
ceeds  l/2%    (half  per  cent.),   the   third   lot,   kept   in   reserve,   is   also   sub- 
mitted to  the  Desiccation.     If  the  difference  in  the  percentage  of  loss  of 
the  three  lots  does   not   exceed   1%    (one  per   cent.),   the  average  of  the 
three  losses  forms  the  basis  for  calculating  the  conditioned  weight  of  the 
whole  bale. 

8.  In  case  the  maximum  difference  in  the  percentage  of  loss  of  all 
three  lots  should  exceed  1%    (one  per  cent.),  the  conditioning  operation 
is  inconclusive.     The  silk  has  then  to  be  spread  openly  during  48  hours  in 
order  to  obtain  uniformity  in  the  state  of  moisture.     A  new  operation  of 
conditioning  follows.     A  charge  for  both  operations  is  made. 

9.  All  calculating  operations  are  made  in  duplicate  by  different  per- 
sons, one  checking  the  other. 


An  ounce  of  Prevention  is  worth  a  pound  of  Cure. 


10.  Other  articles  than  silk  may  also  be  submitted  to  the  conditioning 
operation.  The  allowance  for  natural  moisture  is  as  follows : 

Carded  wool  and  wool  waste 18^4% 

Wool   yarn 17     % 

Cotton,   raw  and  yarned 8l/>% 

Linen,   raw  and  yarned 12     % 

Jute,  raw  and  yarned 13^4% 

Tow,   raw  and  yarned 12j/2% 

Mixed  yarn  of  wool  and  cotton 10     % 

Mixed  yarn  of  wool  and  silk .' .  16     % 

Spun  or  schappe,  raw  and  carded  silk 11     % 

SIZING   TESTS 

The  fineness  of  silk  is  determined  by  the  size.  The  size  is  the  num- 
ber of  deniers  which  a  skein  of  a  certain  length  weighs.  The  legal  denier 
is  a  skein  of  silk  four  hundred  and  fifty  meters  long,  wound  in  four  hun- 
dred turns  on  a  reel  of  one  hundred  and  twelve  and  one-half  centimeters 
in  circumference  and  weighed  by  a  unit  of  five  centigrams  (called 
DENIER). 

To  establish  the  size  of  a  lot  of  silk,  ten  skeins  are  taken  from  every 
bale  and  from  different  parts  of  the  bale,  and  from  each  skein  three  test 
skeins  (called  FLOTTILONS)  are  reeled  off. 

The  conditioned  size  is  obtained  by  reducing  the  test  skeins  to  the 
absolute  weight  and  adding  11%  of  allowed  moisture.  For  such  ad- 
ditional test,  a  charge  of  50c.  is  made. 

TWIST  TESTS 

Samples  of  about  3  to  4  yards  are  taken  from  each  skein  and  reeled 
on  a  metallic  holder.  A  short  boiling  operation  serves  to  free  the  silk 
from  the  gum.  The  tests  are  made  on  a  fixed  length  (half  meter  or  about 
20  inches)  and  the  number  of  turns  reported  on  one  meter,  and  also  per 
inch  by  dividing  turns  per  meter  by  40 — (the  exact  equivalent  being 
39,  37/100  inches). 

ELASTICITY   AND  TENACITY 

The  elasticity  is  expressed  in  Millimeters  on  one  meter  and  tenacity 
in  Grams  on  one  meter. 

BOIL-OFF 

The  boil-off  test  shows  the  loss  of  gum  which  silk,  (raw  or  thrown) 
sustains  by  boiling  twice  for  one-half  hour  in  a  separate  solution  of  soap. 
The  quantity  of  soap  in  each  solution  to  be  25%  of  the  absolute  weight  of 
the  silk.  The  sample  to  be  tested  is  reduced  to  the  absolute  weight  be- 
fore and  after  the  boiling-off.  The  difference  between  the  two  weights 
gives  the  percentage  of  loss. 


Eternal  vigilance  is  the  source  of  gain. 


PRICE  LIST 

Subject  to  alteration,  as  required,  due  notice  of  which  will  be  given. 
Transportation  Charges  Payable  by  Owner. 

Per  bale.  Per  test. 

Conditioning    all    raws,    or  Elasticity  and  tenacity    $0.75 

thrown    silk    $1-00  Twist 75 

Per  test.  Inspection  test,  5  bales  or  less.   5.00 

Boiling  off    l-°°  Net    weighing     (with    detailed 

Measuring:  tare)    75 

10  skeins,  20,000  yds.  long.  .  .   1.00  Weighing  raw  in  shirts 2o 

15  skeins,  15,000  yds.  long. .  .   1.00       Sizing 1.00 

20  skeins,  10,000  yds.  long,  or  Compound    sizing. 2.00 

less     1.00  Conditioning  test  skeins 50 

Additional  copies  of  certificates  Conditioning  spun  silk  (limited 

(in  double)    each 25  to  300  Ibs.  per  bale) 1.00 

COMBINATION   TESTS. 

On  not  less  than  five  bales  and  not  more  than  twenty  bales  in  any  one  lot. 
Thrown  bales  not  to  exceed  the  number  of  raw  bales. 

For  five  bales   $17.50 

For  each  additional  bale  3.50 

For  five  bales,  with  inspection  test 20.00 

Conditioning,  five  bales  raw... $5.00       Sampling    thrown    silk    as    re- 
Sizing,  five  bales  raw 5.00          turned,  for  boil-off $0.50 

Conditioning,  five  bales  thrown,  Boiling  off  raw   1-00 

as    returned    from   throwster  Boiling  off  thrown   1.00 

and  forwarded  to  dyer 5.00 

If  treated  separately  the  individual  charge  for  each  of  the  above  tests 
would  be  $5.00,  making  $25.00  in  all,  showing  a  saving  of  $7.50  when  the 
combination  test  is  ordered. 

Combination  test  must  have  lot  number  for  identification  of  thrown 
silk  when  returned. 

MEMO.  THE   COMBINATION  TEST  GIVES 

a.  The  conditioned  weight  raw  as  a  check  in  paying  for  the  silk. 

b.  Sizing  test  on  each  bale  showing  the  variation  in  the  thread — 30 
small  skeins  from  each  bale. 

c.  The    conditioned    weight    of    the    thrown    silk    returned    by    the 
throwster. 

d.  A  boil  off  of  the  raw  silk  (sizing  skeins)  giving  the  average  gum 
in  the  entire  lot — 30  small  skeins  from  each  bale. 

c.  A  boil  off  of  the  thrown  giving  the  average  gum  and  soap  in  all 
the  thrown  silk  as  returned. 

[RULES  REGARDING   DELIVERY  OF  CERTIFICATES 

All  certificates  are  produced  in  triplicate.  The  original  is  permanently 
filed  at  the  laboratory. 

The  test  tickets  of  our  Company  are  only  delivered  to  the  firm  or  per- 
son who  has  ordered  the  test,  and  in  whose  name  the  ticket  is  issued. 

To  avoid  confusion,  the  tests  ordered  have  to  be  paid  for  by  the  firm 
ordering  the  same. 

If  the  charges  are  to  be  divided  between  two  firms,  both  firms  are  en- 
titled to  one  ticket.  For  Duplicate  Copies  (in  double)  25  cents  is  charged. 


28 


UNITED   STATES   SILK   CONDITIONING   COMPANY 


METRIC    EQUIVALENTS 

LINEAR  MEASURE. 

1  centimeter=:0.3937  in.  1  inch=2.54  centimeters. 

1  decimeter=3.937  in.=0.328  ft.  1  foot=3.048  decimeters. 

1  meter=39.37  in.=1.0936  yds.  1  yard=0.9144  meters. 

1  Xlecameter=1.9884  rods.  1  rod=0.5029  decameters. 

1  kilometer=0.62137  miles.  1  mile=1.6093  kilometers. 
(The  meter,  as  used  in  Europe,  is  39.370432  inches.) 

SQUARE  MEASURE. 

1   sq.  centimeter=0.1550  sq.  inches.  1  sq.  inch=6.452  sq.  centimeters. 

1  sq.  decimeter=0.1076  sq.  feet.  1  sq.  foot=9.2903  sq.  decimeters. 

1  sq.  meter=1.196  sq.  yards.  1  sq.  yard=0.8361  sq.  meters. 

1  are=3.954  sq.  rods.  1  sq.  rod=0.2529  ares. 

1  hectare— 2.47  acres.  1  acre=0.4047  hectares. 

1  sq.  kilometer:=0.386  sq.  miles.  1  sq.  mile=2.59  sq.  kilometers. 

WEIGHTS. 
1  decigram  =  0.003527      oz.  =  1.5432       1  metric   ton=1.1023   English   short 

grains.  tons. 

1  gram=0.03527  oz.  Avoir.,  or  about       1  ounce  Avoir.=28.35  grams. 

15^2  Troy  grains.  1  pound  Avoir.=0.4536  kilograms. 

1  kilogram=2.2046  Ibs.  Avoir.  1  English   short  ton=0.9072  metric 

tons. 

APPROXIMATE  METRIC  EQUIVALENTS. 

1  decimeter=4  inches.  1  Hter=1.06  qt.  liquid,  0.9  qt.  dry. 

1  meter=l.l  yards.  1  hectoliter=2  */«  bushels. 

1  kilometer=5"|  of  a  mile.  1  kilogram=2 1/s  Ibs. 

1  hectare=2^  acres.  1  metric  ton=2,200  Ibs. 

1  stere,  or  cu.  meter=54  of  a  cord. 

TROY  WEIGHT. 

24  grains^l  pennyweight.  12  ounces=l   pound^=5,760   grains. 
20  pennyweights=l  ounce. 

Used  for  weighing  gold,  silver,  etc. 

APOTHECARIES'  WEIGHT. 

20  grains=l  scruple.  8  drams=l  ounce. 

3  scruples=l  dram.  12  ounces=l  pound=5,760  grains. 

The  ounce  and  pound  in  this  are  the  same  as  in  troy  weight. 

AVOIRDUPOIS  WEIGHT. 

27  i:/32  grains=l  dram.  4  quarters=l  hundred  weight. 

16  drams=l  ounce.  2,000  lbs.=:l  short  ton. 

16  ounces=l   pound=7,000   grains.         2,240  lbs.=l  long  ton. 

25  pounds=l  quarter. 

To  avoid  error,  use  abbreviations  grs.  for  grains,  gms.  for  grams. 
Pounds  and  decimals  of  pounds  are  preferable  to  pounds  and  ounces  for 

all   calculations. 
The  values  given  above  have  been  checked  by  the  U.  S.  Bureau  of  Standards. 

29 


UNITED   STATES  SILK   CONDITIONING   COMPANY 

EQUIVALENTS  OF  METRIC  WEIGHTS  IN  POUNDS 
AND  DECIMALS 

Kgs.          Lbs. 

Kgs.          Lbs.                      Kgs.          Lbs. 

1           2.2046 

36         79.3656                           71       156.5266 

2           4.4092 

37         81.5702                           72       158.7312 

3           6.6138 

38          83.7748                           73       160.9358 

4           8.8184 

39         85.9794                           74       163.1404 

5         11.0230 

40          88.1840 

75       165.3450 

6         13.2276 

41         90.38S6 

76       167.5496 

7         15.4322 

42          92.5932 

77       169.7542 

8         17.6368 

43         94.7978 

78       171.9588 

9         19.8414 

44         97.0024 

79       174.1634 

10         22.0460 

45          99.2070 

80       176,3680 

11         24.2506 

46       101.4116 

81       178.5725 

12         26.4552 

47       103.6162 

82       180.7773 

13         28.6598 

48       105.8208 

83       182.9818 

14         30.8644 

49       108.0254 

84       185.1864 

15         33.0690 

50       110.2300 

85       187.3910 

16         35.2736 

51       112.4346 

86       189.5956 

17         37.4782 

52       114.6392 

87       191.8002 

18         39.6828 

53        116.8438 

88       194.0048 

19         41.8874 

54       119.0484 

89       196.2094 

20         44.0920 

55       121.2530 

90       198.4140 

21         46.2966 

56       123.4576 

91       200.6186 

22         48.5012 

57       125.6622 

92       202.8232 

23         50.7058 

58       127.8688 

93       205.0278 

24         52.9104 

59       130.0714 

94       207.2324 

25         55.1150 

60       132.2760 

95       209.4370 

26         57.3196 

61       134.4806 

96       211.6416 

27         59.5242 

62       136.6852 

97       213.8462 

28         61.7288 

63       138.8898 

98       216.0508 

29         63.9334 

64       141.0944 

99       218.2554 

30         66.1380 

65       143.2990 

100       220.4600 

31         68.3426 

66       145.5036 

150       330.6900 

32         70.5472 

67       147.7082 

200       440.9200 

33         72.7518 

68       149.9128 

300       661.3800 

34         74.9564 

69       152.1174 

400       881.8400 

35         77.1610 

70       154.3220 

500     1102.3000 

30 


LABORATORY:     472-474    BROOME    STREET,   NEW    YORK    CITY 

EQUIVALENTS  OF    POUND    WEIGHTS    IN    KILOS 
AND  DECIMALS 

Lbs.         Kgs. 

Lbs.          Kgs. 

Lbs.          Kgs. 

1            0.4536 

36          16.3296 

71         32.2056 

2            0.9072 

37          16.7832 

72          32.6592 

3           1.3608 

38          17.2368 

73          33.1128 

4            1.8144 

39          17.6904 

74         33.5664 

5            2.2680 

40          18.1440 

75         34.0200 

6           2.7216 

41          18.5976 

76          34.4736 

7           3.1752 

42          19.0512 

77         34.9272 

8           3.6288 

43          19.5048 

78         35.3808 

9           4.0824 

44          19.9584 

79         35.8344 

10           4.5360 

45          20.4120 

80         36.2880 

11            4.9896 

46          20.8656 

81          36.7416 

12            5.4432 

47         21.3192 

82         37.1952 

13           5.8968 

48         21.7728 

83          37.6488 

14           6.3504 

49         22.2264 

84         38.1024 

15            6.8040 

50          22.6800 

85          38.5560 

16            7.2576 

51          23.1336 

86         39.0096 

17           7.7112 

52          23.5872 

87         39.4632 

18            8.1648 

53          24.0408 

88         39.9168 

19            8.6184 

54          24.4944 

89         40.3704 

20            9.0720 

55          24.9480 

90         40.8240 

21            9.5256 

56          25.4016 

91          41.2776 

22           9.9792 

57         25.8552 

92         41.7312 

23         10.4328 

58         26.3088 

93          42.1848 

24          10.8864 

59         26.7624 

94         42.6384 

25          11.3400 

60         27.2160 

95          43.0920 

26          11.7936 

61          27.6696 

96          43.5456 

27         12.2472 

62         28.1232 

97          43.9992 

28          12.7008 

63          28.5768 

98          44.4528 

29          13.1544 

64         29.0304 

99         44.9064 

30          13.6080 

65          29.4840 

100         45.3600 

31          14.0616 

66          29.9376 

150         68.0400 

32          14.5152 

67         30.3912 

200         90.7200 

33          14.9688 

68          30.8448 

300       136.0800 

34          15.4224 

69          31.2984 

400       181.4400 

35          15.8760 

70         31.7520 

500       226.8000 

:u 


UNITED   STATES  SILK   CONDITIONING   COMPANY 


EQUIVALENTS    OF   OUNCES 

IN  DECIMALS  OF  THE  POUND 


Ozs. 

Decimals. 

Ozs. 

Decimals. 

54 

Lbs.  0.0156 

8^4 

Lbs.  0.5156 

% 

0.0312 

8/2 

0.5312 

H 

0.0468 

8^ 

0.5468 

i 

0.0625 

9 

0.5625 

i# 

0.0781 

V/4 

0.5781 

V6 

0.0937 

9/2 

0.5937 

1*4 

0.1093 

9& 

0.6093 

2 

0.1250 

10 

0.6250 

2J4 

0.1406 

ioj4 

0.6406 

2J^ 

0.1562 

10^2 

0.6562 

2M 

0.1728 

10^4 

0.6718 

3 

0.1875 

11 

0.6875 

3J4 

0.2031 

iij4 

0.7031 

3^ 

0.2187 

11/2 

0.7187 

324 

0.2343 

ii}4 

0.7343 

4 

0.2500 

12 

0.7500 

4^4 

0.2656 

13J4 

0.7656 

4/2 

0.2812 

12/ 

0.7812 

4^ 

0.2968 

12^4 

0.7968 

5 

0.3125 

13 

0.8125 

5^ 

0.3281 

13^4 

0.8281 

5/2 

0.3437 

13^ 

0.8437 

5J4 

0.3593 

13J4 

0.8593 

6 

0.3750 

14 

0.8750 

6^4 

0.3906 

14J4 

0.8906 

6^ 

0.4062 

14^ 

0.9062 

654 

0.4218 

14^4 

0.9218 

7 

0.4375 

15 

0.9375 

7J4 

0.4531 

15>4 

0.9531 

7/2 

0.4687 

151^ 

0.9687 

7*4 

0.4843 

15J4 

0.9843 

8 

0.5000 

16 

1.0000 

LABORATORY:     472-474   BROOME   STREET,   NEW    YORK   CITY 


INTERNATIONAL  YARN  TABLES 


(Quoted   from   the   published   tables  of   Mr.   Matthew   Blair,   of   Glasgow, 
Scotland.) 


Several  conferences  have  been  held  on  this  subject,  and  at  that  of 
Paris  in  1900  it  was  agreed  that  the  best  system  was  that  of  a  lixed  weight, 
and  a  variable  count  length.  The  unit  was  fixed  at  1  meter,  equal  to  1 
gramme.  Number  1  would  mean  that  a  length  of  1  metre  would  weigh 
I  gramme;  number  100  would  be  100  meters  per  gramme,  etc. 

Exception  was  allowed  for  Raw  and  Thrown  silks,  to  enable  the 
count  to  show  the  degree  of  variation  and  irregularity  incident  to  this 
class  of  material.  The  system  agreed  upon  in  that  case  was,  on  the  con- 
trary, that  of  a  fixed  length  and  a  variable  count  weight.  The  length  of 
skein  adopted  was  450  meters,  and  the  unit  of  weight  the  ^>  decigram; 
thus  the  count  of  a  silk  is  expressed  by  the  number  of  y2  decigrams  which  a 
length  of  450  meters  weighs.  The  count  in  International  Metric  System 
is  also  indicated  on  the  bulletin. 


UNITED   STAGES   SILK   CONDITIONING    COMPANY 

EQUIVALENTS  OF  DRAMS  AND  DENIERS 

TABLES   OF  LENGTH    OF    YARDS    TO  THE   POUND  -RAW  AND 

THROWN 

Decimal   Count 

Interna- 
tional 
Count 
Meters     ! 
per 
Gramme 

Deniers 
Legal  Count  for 
Raw  and  Thrown 
Silk 
y2    Decigrammes 
per    450    Metres 

Manchester 
Thrown   Silk 
Count 
Drams   per   1,000 
Yards 

Decimal  Count 
Yards  per  Pound 
Saw 

Yards  per  pound 
Thrown,    Deduct- 
ng  3%   for  Short- 
ning  from  Twist, 
nd  3%   for  Soak- 
ing, 6%  in  all 

1 

9,000                        515.93 

496 

466 

2 

4,500                       257.96 

992 

933 

3 

3,000                       171.97 

1,488 

1,399 

4 

2,250 

128.98 

1,984 

1,865 

5 

1,800                       103.20 

2,481 

2,332 

6 

1,500                         85.98 

2,977 

2,798 

7 

1,28571                      73.70 

3,473 

3,264 

8 

1,125                         64.49 

3,969 

3,751 

9 

1,000                         57.33 

4,465 

4,197 

10 

900 

51.59 

4,962 

4,664 

11 

81818 

46.90 

5,458 

5,131 

12 

750 

42.99 

5,954 

5,597 

13 

69231 

39.68 

6,450 

6,063 

14 

642s5 

36.85 

6,946 

6,529 

15 

600 

34.39 

7,443 

6,996 

16 

56260 

32.25 

7,939 

7,463 

17 

529" 

30.35 

8,435 

7,929 

18 

500 

28.66 

8,931 

8,395 

19 

47  388 

27.15 

9,426 

8,860 

20 

450 

25.79 

9,924 

8,831 

21 

42857 

24.56 

10,420 

9,795 

22 

409°" 

23.45 

10,916 

10,261 

23 

39130 

22.43 

11,412 

10,727 

24 

375 

21.49 

11,908 

11,193 

25 

360 

20.63 

12,405 

11,661 

26 

34650 

19.84 

12,901 

12,127 

27 

33S33 

19.11 

13,397 

12,593 

28 

32142 

18.42 

13,893 

13,060 

29 

31034 

17.79 

14,389 

13,526 

30 

300 

17.19 

14,886 

13,995 

31 

29032 

16.64 

15,382 

14,459 

32 

28128 

16.12 

15,878 

14,925 

33 

27272 

15.63 

16,374 

15,392 

34 

26470 

15.17 

•16,870 

15,858 

35 

25714 

14.74 

17,364 

16,322 

36 

250 

14.33 

17,863 

16,791 

37 

24324 

13.94 

18,350 

17,249 

38 

236s4 

13.57 

18,859 

17,728 

39 

23076 

13.23 

19,351 

18,190 

40 

225 

12.89 

19,848 

18,657 

41 

21951 

12.58 

20,344 

19,123 

42 

21428 

12.28 

20,840 

19,590 

43 

2093"                       11.99 

21,336                     20,056 

44 

20404                       11.72 

21,832                      20,552 

45 

200                         11.46 

22,329                      20,989 

46 

19565                       11.21 

22,825 

21,456 

47 

191"                       10.97 

23,321 

21,922 

48 

18760                       10.74 

23,817 

22,388 

49 

183°°                      10.53 

24,313 

22,854 

50 

180                        10.32 

24.809                      23,320 

LABORATORY:     472-474   BROOME   STREET,   NEW    YORK    CITY 

EQUIVALENTS  OF  DRAMS  AND  DENIERS 

TABLES   OF  LENGTH    OF    YARDS    TO   THE   POUND  -  RAW   AND 

THROWN  —  Continued 

Decimal   Count 

Interna- 
tional 
Count 
Meters 
pei- 

Deniers 
Legal  Count  for 
Raw  and  Thrown 
Silk 
l/2     Decigrammes 

Manchester 
Thrown   Silk 
Count 
Drams  per   1,000 
Yards 

Decimal   Count 
Yards  per  Pound 
Raw 

Yards  per  Pound 
Thrown,    Deduct- 
ing 3%   for  Short- 
ening from  Twist, 
and  3%   for  Soak- 

Gramme 

per   450    Meters 

ing,  6%  in  all 

51 

17647 

10.11 

25,305 

23,787 

52 

17307 

9.92 

25,801                      24,253 

53 

16981 

9.73 

26,298                     24,720 

54 

16660 

9.55 

26,794                     25,185 

55 

16363 

9.38 

27,290                     25,653 

56 

1607t 

9.21 

27,786 

26,120 

57 

1578B 

9.05 

28,282 

26,585 

58 

15517 

8.89 

28,778                      27,051 

59 

15254 

8.74 

29,274                     27,518 

60 

150 

8.59 

29,771 

27,985 

61 

14764 

8.45 

30,269 

28,453 

62 

14518 

8.32 

30,763 

28,917 

63 

14284 

8.18 

31,259 

29,384 

64 

14082 

8.06 

31,755 

29,850 

65 

13846 

7.93 

32,252 

30,317 

66 

13636 

7.81 

32,748 

30,785 

67 

13432 

7.70 

33,244 

31,249 

68 

13235 

7.58 

33,740 

31,716 

69 

13043 

7.47 

34,236 

32,182 

70 

128B2 

7.37 

34,733 

32,649 

71 

12676 

7.26 

35,229 

33,105 

72 

125 

7.16 

35,725 

33,582 

73 

12328 

7.06 

36,221       . 

34,048 

74 

12162 

6.97 

36,717 

34,514 

75 

120 

6.88 

37,214 

34,981 

76 

11842 

6.78 

37,710                      35,447 

77 

11688 

6.70 

38,206                      35,914 

78 

11538 

6.61 

38,702 

36,464 

79 

11392 

6.53 

39,198 

36,836 

80 

11250 

6.44 

39,695 

37,303 

81 

11111 

6.37 

40,191 

37,780 

82 

10975 

6.29 

40,681 

38,246 

83 

10843 

6.21 

41,183 

38,712 

84 

10714 

6.14 

41,679 

39,178 

85 

10588 

6.07 

42,176 

39,645 

86 

10465 

5.99 

42,672 

40,112 

87 

10344 

5.93 

43,168 

40,578 

88 

10202 

5.86 

43,664 

41,044 

89 

10112                         5.79 

44,160 

41,510 

90 

100                            5.73 

44,657 

41,978 

91 

98"°                         5.67 

45,153 

42,444 

92 

9782                          5.61 

45,649 

42,910 

93 

96™                         5.55                      46,145 

43,376 

94 

95™                         5.49                      46,643 

43,844 

95 

9470                         5.43 

47,138 

44,310 

96 

9378                         5.37 

47,634 

44,784 

97 

9278                         5.31 

48,130 

45,242 

98 

9188                         5.26 

48,626 

45,708 

99                          9090 

5.21 

49,122 

46,175 

100 

90 

5.15 

49,619 

46,642 

UNITED   STATES  SILK   CONDITIONING   COMPANY 

EQUIVALENTS  OF  DRAMS  AND  DENIERS 

TABLES  OF  LENGTH  OF  YARDS    TO    THE    POUND  -  RAW    AND 

THROWN  -  Continued 

Interna-              Deniers 
tional           Legal  Count  for 
Count       Raw  and  Thrown 
Meters                     Silk 
per         ,  y2     Decigrammes 
Gramme    '   per   450    Meters 

Manchester 
Thrown  Silk 
Count 
Drams  per   1,000 
Yards 

Decimal  Count 
Yards  per  Pound 
Raw 

I 

Decimal   Count 
Yards  per  Pound 
Thrown,    Deduct- 
ing 3%  for  Short- 
ening from  Twist, 
and  3%   for  Soak- 
ing, 6%  in  all 

105                          8571 

4.91 

52,100 

48,974 

110 

8181 

4.69 

54,581 

51,306 

115 

7S26 

4.48 

57,062 

53,638 

120                          75 

4.29 

59,543 

55,970 

125                         72 

4.12 

62,024 

58,303 

130                eg23 

3.96 

64,505 

60,635 

135 

6666 

3.82 

66.986 

62,967 

140 

64* 

3.68                      69,467 

65,299 

145 

6207* 

3.56                     71,948 

67,631 

150 

60 

3.44          1           74,429 

69,963 

155 

5806 

3.32                     76,910 

72,295 

160 

S625 

3.22                     79,391 

74,627 

165 

54** 

3.13                     81,872 

76,960 

170 

52W 

3.03 

84,353 

79,292 

175 

5  142 

2.94 

86,834 

81,624 

180 

50 

2.86 

89,315 

83,956 

185 

4g66 

2.79 

91,796 

86,288 

190                         47K 

2.71 

94,277 

88,620 

195 

461B 

2.64 

96,758 

90,953 

200 

45 

2.57 

99,239 

93,285 

205 

4390 

2.52 

101,720 

95,467 

210 

42s6 

2.46 

104,201 

97,949 

215 

4188 

2.40 

106,682 

100,281 

220 

40"° 

2.34 

109,163 

102,613 

225 

40 

2.29 

111,644 

104.945 

230 

3913 

2,24 

114,125 

107.277 

235 

3830 

2.19 

116.606 

109.610 

240 

3750 

2.14 

119.087 

111,942 

245 

3673 

2.10 

121,568 

114.274 

250 

36 

2.06 

124.049 

116,606 

255 

3S29 

2.02 

126.530 

118.938 

260 

3481 

1.98 

129,011 

121,270 

265 

S386 

1.94 

131.492 

123.602 

270 

33s3 

1.91 

133,973 

125.935 

275 

3272 

1.87 

136,454 

128.267 

280 

3213 

1.84 

138,935 

130.599 

285 

31B7 

1.81 

141.416 

132.931 

290 

3  103 

1.78 

143.897 

135.263 

295 

3060 

1.75 

146.378 

137.595 

300 

30 

1.72 

148.859 

139.927 

305 

2950 

1.69 

151.340 

142.260 

310 

2903 

1.66 

153.821 

144.592 

315 

28BT 

1.63 

156.302 

146.924 

320                         28" 

1.61 

158.783 

149.256 

325                        27"° 

1.58 

161.264 

151.588 

330                       27s7 

1,56 

163.745 

153.920 

335                        26s3 

1.53 

166.226 

156.290 

340 

26" 

1.51 

168.707 

158.585 

345 
350 

2608 
2571 

1.49 

1.47 

171,188 
173,668 

160.917 
163,248 

LABORATORY:     472-474   BROOME    STREET,   NEW    YORK    CITY 

EQUIVALENTS  OF  DRAMS   AND  DEN1ERS 

TABLES   OF  LENGTH   OF  YARDS    TO    THE    POUND  -RAW    AND 

THROWN  —  Continued 

(TIT 

Decimal  Count 

Interna- 
tional 
Count 
Meters 
per 
Gramme 

Deniers 
Legal  Count  for 
Raw  and  Thrown 
Silk 
Vi     Decigrammes 
per   450    Meters 

Manchester 
Thrown   Silk 
Count 
Drams   per    1,000 
Yards 

Decimal   Count 
Yards  per  Pound 
Raw 

Yards  per  Pound 
Thrown,    Deduct- 
ing 3%  for  Short- 
ening from  Twist, 
and  3%   for  So-k- 
ing,  6%  in  all 

355 

2S35 

1.45 

176,149 

165,570 

360 

25 

1.43 

178,630                    167,912 

365 

24W 

1.41 

181,111                    170,244 

370 

2432 

1.39 

183,592 

172,577 

375 

24 

1.37 

186,073 

174,909 

380 

23" 

1.35 

188,554 

177,241 

385 

23s7. 

1.34 

191,035 

179,573 

390 

2307 

1.32 

193,516 

181,905 

395 

22re 

1.30 

195,991                     184,232 

400 

2250 

1.28 

198,479 

186,570 

405 

2222 

1.27 

200,960 

188,902 

410 

2186 

1.26 

203,441                     191,235 

415 

2188 

1.24 

205,922                    193,567 

420 

2142 

1.22 

208,403                    195,899 

425 

2  117 

1.21 

210,884 

198,231 

430 

2083 

1.20 

213,365                    200,563 

435 

206" 

.   1.18 

215,846 

202,895 

440 

2046 

1.17 

218,327 

205,227 

445 

2022 

1.16 

220,408 

207,183 

450 

20 

1.14 

223,288 

209,881 

455 

1978 

1.13 

225,769 

212,013 

460 

1956 

1.12 

228.250 

214,555 

465 

1986 

1  .11 

230,731 

216,887 

470 

19JB 

1.09 

233,212 

219,219 

475 

1894 

1.08 

235,639 

221,501 

480 

187B 

1.07 

238,174 

223,884 

485 

1858 

1.06 

240,655                    226,216 

490 

1836 

1.05 

243,136                    228,548 

495 

1818 

1.04 

245,617                   230,880 

500 

18 

1.03 

248,097                   233,211 

505 

1782 

1.02 

250,578 

235,543 

510 

1764 

1.01 

253,059 

237,876 

515 

1747 

1.00 

255,540 

240,208 

530 

1730 

0.99 

258,021 

242,540 

525 

17U 

0.98 

260,502 

244,872 

530 

1698 

0.97 

262,983 

247,204 

535 

1682 

0.96 

265,464 

249,536 

540 

1668 

0.95 

267.945 

251,868 

545 

.      16B1 

0.94 

270,426 

254,200 

550 

16se 

0.93 

272,906 

256,532 

555 

1621 

093 

275,387 

258,864 

560 

1607 

0.92 

277,868 

261,096 

565 

1583 

0.91 

280,349 

263,528 

570 

1578 

0.90 

282,830 

265,860 

575 

15« 

0.90 

285.311 

268,192 

580 

1551 

0.89 

287.791 

270,524 

585 

1538 

0.88 

290,272 

272,856 

590 

15* 

0.87 

292,753 

275,188 

595 

1513 

0.86 

295.234 

277,520 

600 

15 

0.85 

297,716 

279,853 

37 


UNITED   STATES   SILK   CONDITIONING   COMPANY 

EQUIVALENTS  OF  DRAMS  AND  DENIERS 

TABLES   OF  LENGTH  OF   YARDS    TO    THE    POUND  —  RAW   AND 

THROWN  —  Continued 

Interna- 
tional 

Meters 
per 
Gramme 

Deniers                    Manchester 

iSfiS^Sz  !  ThrCc:unntSilk 

.     ~,S?Ik                 Drams  per   1,000 
l/z     Decigrammes                Yards 
per   450    Meters 

Decimal  Count 
Yards  per  Pound 
Raw 

Decimal   Count 
Yards  per  Pound 
Thrown,    Deduct- 
ng  3%  for  Short- 
ening from  Twist, 
and  3%   for  Soak- 
ing, 6%  in  all 

610 

1475                          0.84 

302,679 

284,518 

620 

1451                          0.83 

307,641 

289,182 

630 

1428                          0.81 

312,603 

293,847 

640 

1406                         0.80 

317,565 

298,511 

650 

1384                        0.79 

322,526 

303,174 

660 

1363                        0.78 

327,488 

307,839 

670 

13"                        0.77 

332,450 

312,503 

680 

1323                        0.75 

337,412 

317,167 

690 

1304                        0.74 

342,374 

321,831 

700 

1285                        0.73 

347,336 

326,496 

710 

1267 

0.72 

352,298 

331,160 

720 

1260 

0.71 

357,260 

335,824 

730 

1232 

0.70 

362,222 

340,489 

740 

1216                        0.69 

367,184 

345,153 

750 

12                          0.68 

372,145 

349,816 

760 

II83                         0.67 

377,107 

354,481 

770 

II68                        0.67 

382,069 

359,145 

780 

II53 

0.66 

387,031 

363,809 

790      .                  II38 

0.65 

391,993 

368,473 

800                        II28 

0.64 

396,956 

373,139 

810                       H11                        0.63 

401,918 

377,803 

820 

1097                         0.63 

406,880 

382,477 

830 

1084 

0.62 

411,842 

387,131 

840 

1071 

0.61 

416,804 

391,796 

850 

1068 

0.60 

421,765 

396,459 

860 

1046 

0.60 

426,727 

401,123 

870 

1034 

6.59 

431,689 

405,788 

880 

1022 

0.58 

436,651 

410,452 

890 

1011 

0.58 

441,613 

415,116 

900 

10 

0.57 

446,575 

419,780 

910 

98. 

0.56 

451,537 

424,454 

920 

Q78 

0.56 

456,499 

429,109 

930 

9OT 

0.55 

461,461 

433,773 

940 

957 

0.54 

466,423 

438,438 

950 

947 

0.54 

471,384 

443,101 

960 
970 

9s7 

928 

0.53 
0.53 

476,346 
481,308 

447,765 
452,429 

980 

918 

0.52 

486,270                    457,094 

990 

g«9 

0.52 

491,232                    461.758 

1000 

9 

0.51 

496,194 

466.422 

LABORATORY:     472-474   BROOME   STREET,   NEW    YORK   CITY 


TABLE  OF  LENGTH  OF  YARDS  OF  SILK  TO 

THE  POUND  IN  SIZES  9/11   TO   16/18 

DENIERS, 

TAKING  THE  AVERAGE  OF  THE  SIZE 

The  table  is  based  on  the  following  figures  of  length  of  silk  of  One 
denier. 

1  denier=0.05  grams. 
1  kilogram=1000  grams. 

1  kilogram=20,000  deniers  of  450  meters  each. 
1  kilogram=9,000,000   meters— 354,330,000   inches. 
1  kilogram=2.2046  pounds. 
1  pound=160,723,033  inches. 

1  pound=4,464,528  yards  to  one  pound  of  one  'denier. 
4,444,444=Rule  of  seven  four's  yards  to  one  pound  of  1  denier. 
20,084=Error  less  than  l/2  of  1%. 


4,464,528 

The  exact  decimal  equivalent  in  inches  for  one  meter  as  used  in 
Europe  and  elsewhere,  is  39.370432.  As  established  by  United  States 
Standard  it  is  39.37  inches.  This  standard  has  been  followed  in  pre- 
paring this  book  as  the  difference  of  .000432  may  be  considered  negligible 
for  silk  calculations. 

The  term  denier  is  generally  used  in  this  country  as  applying  ex- 
clusively to  raw  silk.  To  indicate  the  size  of  thrown  silk,  the  term  dram 
is  used.  A  1  dram  silk  measures  1000  yards  for  a  weight  of  one  dram, 
which  equals  256,000  yards  per  pound.  A  2  dram  silk  is  one-half  this  or 
128,000  yards  per  pound.  A  3  dram,  85,333  yards,  and  so  on. 

To  find  the  dramage  of  any  given  length  per  pound  divide  256,000  by 
the  yards. 

To  find  the  yardage  of  any  given  dramage  divide  256,000  by  the  drams. 
To  reduce  any  given  dramage  to  deniers  multiply  the  dramage  by  17.44. 
To  reduce  any  given  deniers  to  drams  divide  the  deniers  by  17.44. 

In  figuring  sizes  of  thrown  silk  always  make  due  allowance  for  soap 
and  oil,  take  up  in  twist,  etc. 


39 


UNITED   STATES   SILK   CONDITIONING   COMPANY 


TABLE   OF   LENGTHS   OF   YARDS  OF  SILK 

TO   THE    POUND   IN   SIZES  9/11   TO 

16/18    DENIERS,    TAKING    THE 

AVERAGE  OF  THE  SIZE 

Explanation:     1.    The  table  gives  the  raw  silk  yards  to  the  pound. 

2.  If  thrown  unsoaked,   the   silk  is  shortened  about   three 

per  cent.,  depending  on  the  varying  twists  and  threads. 

3.  The  difference  between  the  raw  and  thrown  silk  boil-off, 

when  added  to  this  three  per  cent.,  indicates  the  num- 
ber of  the  table  to  be  used  up  to  ten. 

Illustration  on  page  21. 


(3)  Thrown 

(4)  3%  Shorten- 

RAW 

3%  Shortening 

ing  4.  1%  Soap 

16/18-1654  to  1754 

255,100  to  270,600 

247,400  to  262,500 

244,900  to  259,800 

16/18-1654  to  1754 

15/17-1554  to  1654 

270,600  to  288,  "00 

262,500to279,400 

259,800  to  276,  500 

15/17-1554  to  1654 

14/16-1454  to  1554 

288,000  to  307,900 

279,400  to  298,700 

276,500  to  295,600 

14/16-1454  to  1554 

13/15-1354  to  1454 

307,900  to  330,  700 

298,700  to  320,  800 

295,600  to  317,500 

13/15  1354  to  1454 

12/14-1254  to  1354 

330,700to  357,100 

320,800  to  346,400 

317,500  to  342,  800 

12/14-1254  to  1354 

11/13-1154  to  1254 

357,100  to  388,200 

346,400  to  376,600 

342,  800  to  372,  700 

11/13-1154  to  1254 

10/12-1054  to  1154 

388,200  to  425,200 

376,600  to  412,400 

372,  700  to  408,200 

10/12-1054  to  1154 

9/11-   954  to  1054 

425,  200  to  4-  09,900 

412,400  10455,800 

408,200  to  451,100 

9/11-  954  to  1054 

'       ' 

(5)  3%  Shorten- 

(6) 3%  Shorten- 

(7) 3%  Shorten- 

ing  +   2%  Soap 

ing  +   3%  Soap 

ing  4.  4%  Soap 

16/18-1654  to  1754 

242,300to257,100 

239,800to254,400 

237,200  to  251,  700 

16/18-1654  to  1754 

15/17-1554  to  1654 

257,  100  to  273,600 

254,  400  to  270,700 

251,  700  to  267,800 

.15/17-1554  to  1654 

14/16-1454  to  1554 

273,600  to  292,  500 

270,700  to  289,400 

267,800  to  286,300 

14/16-1454  to  1554 

13/15  1354  to  1454 

292,  oOOto  314,200 

289,400  to  310,  900 

286,300  to  307,600 

13/15-1354  to  1454 

12/14-1254  to  1354 

314,200  to  339,200 

310,900  to  335,700 

307,600  to  332,  100 

12/14-1254  to  1354 

11/13-1154  to  1254 

339,200  to  338,800 

335,700  to  364,SOO 

332,  100  to  361,  000 

11/13-1154  to  1254 

10/12-1054  to  1154 

368,800  to  403,900 

364,  900  to  399,700 

361,  000  to  395,  400 

10/12-1054  to  1154 

9/11-  954  to  1054 

403,900  to  446,400 

399,700  to  441,  700 

395,400  to  437,000 

9/11-  954  to  10~54 

(8)  3%  Shorten- 

(9) 3%  Shorten- 

(10) 3%  Shorten- 

ing +  5%  Soap 

ing     4.6%  Soap 

ing  +  7%  Soap 

16/18  1854  to  1754  ,  234,700to249,000 

232,100  to  246,200 

229,600  to  243,500 

16/18-1654  to  1754 

15/17-1554  to  1654    249,000  to  265,000 

246,200  to  262  000 

243,500  to  259,  200 

15/17-1554  to  1654 

14/16-1454  to  15J4 

265,000  to  283,300    262,000  to  280,200 

259,200  to  277,100 

14/16-1454  to  1554 

13/15  1354  to  1454    283,300  to  304,200    280,200  to  300,900 

277,100  to  297,600 

13/15-1354  to  1454 

12/14-1254  to  1354    304.200  to  328,500    300,900  to  325,000 

297,600  to  321,400 

12/14-1254  to  1354 

11/13-11}4  to  1254 

328,500  to  357,100 

325,000  to  353,300 

321,400to  349,400 

11/13-1154  to  1254 

10/12-1054  to  11  54 

357,100  to  391,  200 

353,300  to  386,900 

349,400  to  382,  700 

10/12-1054  to  1154 

9/11-  954  to  1054 

391,200to432,300 

386,900  to  427,600 

382,  700  to  423  000 

9/11-  954  to  1054 

LABORATORY:     472-474   BROOME    STREET,   NEW    YORK    CITY 


POINTS    OF    INTEREST    IN    THE   HISTORY 
OF  SILK   CONDITIONING 

'I he  first  attempt  to  condition  raw  silk  was  made  in  1684  in  Italy, 
when  a  royal  decree,  issued  the  15th  of  October  of  that  year  in  Turin,  in- 
formed both  sellers  and  buyers  of  raw  silk  that  there  was  a  possibility 
of  establishing  the  true  weight  of  raw  silk  in  an  impartial  manner. 

At  that  period  the  conditioning  of  silk  was  a  private  operation  of  good 
faith  between  the  two  parties  interested.  Gradually  the  necessity  de- 
veloped for  a  public  and  disinterested  testing  house,  and»in  1724  the  first 
conditioning  house  was  founded  in  Turin  and  opened  for  public  service 
on  the  8th  of  April. 

The  method  of  conditioning  adopted  was  the  following:  Raw  silk 
skeins  were  suspended  on  sticks  and  exposed  to  the  open  air  for  24  hours 
in  large,  open  rooms  in  order  to  obtain  uniformity  in  the  condition  of 
moisture,  of  the  silk.  In  summer  time,  the  natural  state  of  the  atmosphere 
was  considered  propitious  for  the  silk,  whereas  during  the  cooler  part  of 
the  year  the  rooms  were  heated  and  the  temperature  of  the  air  kept  at 
20  to  25  degrees  Centigrade.  A.t  the  end  of  this  drying  opration  of  24 
hours  the  raw  silk  was  considered  to  be  in  the  proper  condition  of  moisture 
to  change  the  ownership. 

On  the  25th  of  March  1735  the  King  of  Italy  issued  a  decree  en- 
trusting to  the  Consul  of  Trade  the  task  of  establishing  detailed  rules  for 
the  method  of  conditioning;  also  of  appointing  the  manager  and  stipulat- 
ing the  charges  to  be  collected  for  the  operation.  The  receipts  went  to  the 
treasury  of  the  Consulate  of  Trade,  a  fact  which  means  that  this  first 
conditioning  house  was  an  official  institution. 

In  1779  a  merchant  of  Lyons,  Mr.  Rast-Maupas,  made  a  trip  through 
the  whole  of  Italy  and  on  his  way  back  visited  also  the  conditioning  house 
in  Turin.  On  his  return  to  Lyons,  Mr.  Rast  addressed  to  the  Consul  of 
Trade  a  request  to  be  allowed  to  open  a  conditioning  house  in  Lyons 
and  asking  for  the  exclusive  right  to  condition  raw  silk  for  a  period  of  30 
years.  This  request  was  rejected  with  the  argument  that  the  monopoly 
for  conditioning  silk  could  only  be  granted  to  the  Board  of  Trade  of 
Lyons,  and  not  to  a  private  individual.  Consequently  Mr.  Rast  being 
convinced  of  the  necessity  of  such  an  institution,  opened  a  conditioning 
house  cmt  of  his  own  funds  without  any  official  protection.  He  adopted 
a  somewhat  different  method  cHt  conditioning  than  the  one  used  in  Turin. 
Instead  of  hanging  the  silk  in  open  rooms  on  sticks,  he  had  boxes  or  par- 
titions of  wire-grate,  where  the  raw  silk  was  placed  in  a  loose  manner  and 
exposed  to  the  freely  passing  air.  Seller  and  buyer  were  present  at  the 
filling  of  these  boxes  which  were  then  sealed.  After  24  hours  of  drying, 
the  seals  were  removed  arid  the  silk  weighed  net  in  the  presence  of  both 


UNITED   STATES   SILK   CONDITIONING   COMPANY 


seller  and  buyer,  and  this  weight  was  recognized  as  the  official  commercial 
weight  of  the  silk.  As  in  Turin  the  boxes  were  heated,  or  not,  accord- 
ing to  the  season  of  the  year.  The  Lyons  system  had  the  advantage  of 
leaving  the  bale  undivided  and  under  seal,  thus  avoiding  any  mixing  or 
theft. 

Mr.  Rast  was  successful,  and  the  success  of  his  venture  induced  three 
other  merchants  of  Lyons  to  establish  similar  conditioning  houses.  Con- 
sequently a  strong  competition  amongst  the  four  institutions  sprang  up 
with  the  result  that  the  three  younger  concerns  were  ruined.  The  con- 
petition  had  affected  the  integrity  of  the  operation,  as  improper  means  to 
influence  the  weight  of  the  silk  had  been  introduced  in  order  to  attract 
clients  to  these  contestants,  and  these  manipulations  destroyed  the  good 
reputation  of  the"  Lyons  Trade. 

In  order  to  overcome  this  drawback  the  Board  of  Trade  of  Lyons 
applied  to  the  Central  Government  in  Paris  suggesting  the  amalgamation 
of  the  four  private  conditioning  houses,  and  by  seizing  the  business  to 
run  it  as  a  monopoly  under  a  very  close  supervision. 

Consequently,  by  decree  of  the  23rd  Germinal  XIII  (5th  April,  1805) 
Napoleon  I.  conferred  on  the  Board  of  Trade  of  Lyons  the  monopoly  for 
the  conditioning  of  silk.  The  owners  of  the  four  private  conditioning 
houses  were  forced  to  close  and  received  a  small  compensation.  In  1809 
the  Board  of  Trade  voted  the  building  of  a  new  plant,  and  in  1814  the 
concern  was  opened  for  the  public  service.  Until  1842  the  method  of  con- 
ditioning remained  unchanged. 

In  1831  a  French  engineer,  Mr.  Leon  Talabot,  tried  to  have  a  new 
system  of  conditioning  adopted.  But  it  was  only  after  ten  years  of  hard 
work  and  by  innumerable  tests  of  comparison  that  he  succeeded  in  1842 
in  convincing  the  Board  of  Trade  and  the  Central  Government  of  the 
superiority  of  his  method  over  the  old  system.  The  collaborators  of  Mr. 
Leon  Talabot  were  the  two  constructors  Persoz  and  Rochat. 

At  first  Mr.  Talabot  had  dried  out  the  whole  bale  of  silk  by  hot  air, 
and  then  gave  to  the  silk  a  certain  amount  of  moisture.  But  the  high 
temperature  affected  the  fibre  of  the  silk  and  the  operation  occupied  too 
much  time  and  was  too  expensive.  He  had  then  the  idea  of  building  the 
drying  oven  on  a  much  smaller  scale  and  instead  of  drying  out  the  whole 
bale  to  use  only  samples  from  all  parts  of  the  bale.  These  samples  were 
dried  out  until  a  complete  state  of  dryness  was  obtained,  that  is  to  say 
until  the  heat  had  no  more  influence  on  the  weight  of  the  silk.  By  means 
of  careful  studies,  and  hundred  of  tests  followed  systematically  for  years, 
he  had  arrived  at  the  conclusion  that  10%  negain  of  moisture  is  the  natural 
specific  state  or  condition  of  raw  silk.  Later  on  the  percentage  of  allow- 
ance for  regain  was  raised  to  11%  which  is  now  the  recognized  standard 
throughout  the  silk  trade  of  the  world. 

Since  1842  nothing  has  been  changed  in  this  standard  of  establishing 
the  commercial  weight  of  the  raw  silk.  Only  the  method  of  attaining  the 


LABORATORY:     472-474   BROOME   STREET,   NEW    YORK    CITY 


absolute  weight  (dry  weight)  has  changed  occasionally  by  using  different 
kinds  of  heating  material,  such  as  charcoal,  gas,  steam,  electricity  and 
others. 

Up  to  1903  all  the  systems  were  in  connection  with  the  fact  that  the 
high  chimney  exerted  a  certain  suction  power  from  the  ovens  into  the 
chimney.  But  this  suction  of  air  was  variable  and  depended  on  the  state 
of  atmosphere,  such  as  hot  or  cold  weather,  wind,  rain,  sunshine,  each  of 
these  facts  influencing  the  amount  of  draught  in  the  chimney.  All  possible 
means  were  tried  to  counterbalance  these  effects  by  adopting  regulating 
machinery  of  different  systems,  but  without  absolute  success. 

Mr.  Guiseppe  Corti,  the  Manager  of  the  Milan  Conditioning  House 
Cooperativa,  conceived  the  idea,  that  instead  of  the  suction  power  of  the 
chimney,  a  ventilator  or  blower  might  be  used  to  force  the  necessary 
amount  of  heated  air  through  the  ovens  and  silk  and  thus  obtain  the  ab- 
solute weight  of  the  silk  samples.  He  constructed  the  machinery  fit  for 
the  purpose  and  had  it  patented. 

At  the  present  time  all  the  important  Conditioning  Houses  in  Europe 
have  adopted  the  Corti  System,  which  means  a  good  step  forward,  as  the 
conditioning  operation  has  been  shortened  by  nearly  one-half,  and  uni- 
formity of  method  obtained,  which  was  unknown  before. 

There  are  Conditioning  Houses  at  the  following  points,  as  well  as  in 
some  other  places  where  the  testing  is  principally  on  other  fibres. 


Italy 


France 


Szvitserland 
Germany 

Austria 
England 


Milan   (2) 

Turin 

Bergamo 

Lecco 

Como 

Florence 

Udine 

Messina 

Lyons 

St.  Etienne 

St.  Chamond 

Aubenas 

Avignon 

Calais 

Paris 

Marseilles 

Zurich 

Basel 

Crefeld 

Elberfeld 

Vienna 

Bradford 


UNITED   STATES   SILK   CONDITIONING   COMPANY 

RAW  SILK  RULES  AND  REGULATIONS 

TO    GOVERN  TRANSACTIONS  BETWEEN  BUYERS  AND  SELLERS 

IN 

THE  UNITED  STATES  OF  AMERICA 

Approved  by  the  Raw  Silk  Division  of  the  Silk  Association  May 
18,  1908,  and  approved  by  the  Board  of  Managers  of  the  Silk  As- 
sociation of  America,  May  22,  1908,  by  the  following  resolution : 

RESOLVED,  That  the  Raw  Silk  Rules  and  Regulations  to  govern  transactions  be- 
tween Buyers  and  Sellers  on  the  Raw  Silk  Market,  which  have  been  approved 
by  the  Raw  Silk  Division  of  the  Silk  Association  of  America,  have  been  care- 
fully considered  by  the  Board  of  Managers  and  approved  by  them. 

The  Board  feels  justified  in  adopting  them  as  rules  to  govern  (in  the 
absence  of  other  special  agreements),  the  adjudication  of  all  disputes  or  claims 
which  may  be  referred  to  the  Arbitration  Committee  of  the  Silk  Association  of 
America  for  settlement. 


RULES 

NOTE. — It  is  understood  that  nothing  in  the  following  rules  shall 
be  construed  as  waiving  the  right  in  individual  transactions  to  make 
any  special  or  distinct  contrary  agreement,  but  that  the  rules  shall 
govern  only  in  cases  where  no  special  or  specific  contract  exists. 

SALES  OF  SPECIFIED  OR  IDENTIFIABLE  LOTS  OF  SILK  from  stock, 
or  to  arrive,  for  prompt,  or  future  delivery  (as  for  instance,  of  a 
lot  giving  marks  and  numbers,  or  of  Seller's  purchase  of  such  and 
such  a  date,  or  of  a  lot  shipped  on  a  specified  steamer  or  date,  or 
in  any  other  manner  identifiable  and  distinct  from  other  silks),  are 
cancelled  by  destruction  of  such  silks  by  fire,  flood,  marine  disaster, 
or  other  unavoidable  casualty  prior  to  delivery  dates  as  called  for 
by  contract;  or  by  the  failure  of  Reeler,  or  by  damage  to,  or  de- 
struction of,  the  producing  factory  prior  to  delivery  by  the  Reeler. 
NOTE.— The  buyer  can  protect  himself  at  any  time,  by  taking 
out  additional  marine  insurance  to  any  extent. 

SALES  OF  AN  UNSPECIFIED  LOT  OF  A  GIVEN  QUALITY,  GRADE, 
CLASS  AND  SIZE  OF  SILK  (as  for  instance,  a  sale  of  100  Bales 
Japan  Filatures  No.  1  at  a  given  price  and  delivery),  cannot  be 
voided  except  by  mutual  consent  of  Buyer  and  Seller.  Delay  in 
actual  transit,  damage,  or  destruction  of  an  unspecified  lot  of  silk, 
where  a  similar  lot  is  not  obtainable  on  the  New  York  market, 
gives  the  Seller  a  reasonable  period  (to  be  determined  by  Arbitra- 
tion in  case  of  dispute)  in  which  to  replace. 

DELIVERIES.  Sales  for  delivery  on  a  given  date,  demand  delivery  or 
readiness  for  delivery  on  the  date  specified. 


LABORATORY:    472-474   BROOME   STREET,   NEW    YORK   CITY 


Sales  for  delivery  on  arrival  on  or  about  a  given  date,  give 
Seller  the  right  of  delivery  15  days  earlier  or  later  than  the  date 
specified. 

Sales  for  delivery  within  a  given  period,  give  Seller  the  right 
of  delivery  at  any  time  within  the  period  specified,  unless  the  con- 
tract calls  for  specific  deliveries  during  said  period. 

Seller  should  notify  Buyer  of  readiness  to  deliver,  in  accord- 
ance with  contract  terms  of  delivery,  and  Buyer  is  under  equal 
obligation  to  call  for  silk  when  due  him,  but  inadvertent  failure  of 
either  party  to  tender  or  call  for  delivery,  shall  not  void  contract 
where  readiness  to  deliver  can  be  proved. 

Delivery  by  Seller  to  common  carrier,  or  Agent  of  Buyer,  in 
compliance  with  oral  or  written  instructions  of  Buyer,  or  party 
ordering  shipment,  is  at  the  risk  of  said  Buyer,  or  party  ordering 
shipment. 

SHIPMENTS  FROM  ABROAD.  Sales  for  shipment  on  or  before  a  given 
date,  demand  shipment  on  or  before  the  date  specified. 

Sales  for  shipment  on  or  about  a  given  date,  give  Seller  the 
right  of  shipment  15  days  earlier  or  later  than  the  date  specified. 

Sales  for  shipment  within  a  given  period,  give  Seller  the  right 
of  shipment  at  any  time  within  the  period  specified,  unless  the  con- 
tract calls  for  specific  shipments  during  said  period. 

Date  of  bill  of  lading  shall  be  construed  as  giving  date  of 
shipment. 

DEFERRED  DELIVERIES  caused  by  request  of  Buyer,  are  at  the  risk 
of  Buyer,  who  shall  pay  interest  if  incurred,  storage  and  fire  in- 
surance. 

FIRE  INSURANCE.  In  case  of  total  or  partial  loss  by  fire  where  silks 
remain  in  the  custody  of  Seller  for  account  of  Buyer,  whether 
actually  billed  up  or  held  for  deferred  delivery  (paid  for  or  not), 
the  amount  due  Seller  becomes  payable  in  accordance  with  terms 
of  contract,  and  Seller  shall  credit  Buyer  with  whatever  amount 
may  be  recovered  from  the  Underwriters  on  the  lots  in  question. 

WEIGHTS — Actual  Weight  and  Tare  is  weight  as  taken  at  the  time  of  de- 
livery, or  billing  date  (if  delivery  is  deferred),  less  actual  tare  of 
bags,  papers  and  strings. 

Invoice  Weight  is  net  weight  as  invoiced  by  Seller  or  Seller's 
Agent  at  point  from  which  originally  shipped. 

Conditioned  Weight.  To  ascertain  conditioned  weight  of  a 
lot  of  Asiatic  silks  sold  on  basis  of  conditioned  weight,  plus  the 
percentages  provided  for  the  different  classes  of  silk,  at  least  two 
bales  out  of  every  five  bales  shall  be  tested  at  Conditioning  House 
in  New  York.  The  average  of  all  tests  must  be  accepted  as  the 


45 


UNITED   STATES   SILK   CONDITIONING    COMPANY 


basis  for  entire  lot,  and  expense  of  conditioning  divided  equally  be- 
tween Buyer  and  Seller. 

Questions  Over  Actual  and/or  Invoice  Weight  must  be  adjusted 
by  Buyer  notifying  Seller  that  he  wishes  the  lot  rebilled  to  him 
conditioned  weight  plus  the  usual  percentages,  and  Buyer  must 
then  send  at  least  two  original  bales  out  of  every  five  bales  or 
less  of  the  lot,  to  be  conditioned  at  Conditioning  House  in  New 
York,  in  accordance  with  the  rule  for  "Conditioned  Weight."  Re- 
sult shall  be  accepted  by  Buyer  and  Seller,  whether  to  their  benefit 
or  loss,  and  conditioning  costs  borne  by  losing  party.  Condition- 
ing tests  by  Buyer,  or  his  Agent,  before  notifying  Seller  that  con- 
ditioned weight  will .  be  accepted,  cancels  Buyer's  claim  to  weight 
adjustment,  and  proof  that  such  prior  conditioning  tests  have  not 
been  made  must  be  furnished,  if  desired. 

Japan  Silks,  China  Steam  Filatures,  Canton  Filatures  are  sold 
New  York  conditioned  weight  plus  2  per  cent.,  or  actual  weight,  or 
invoice  weight. 

China  Rereels,  Canton  Rereels  are  sold  conditioned  weight  plus 
2H  per  cent,  or  actual  weight,  or  invoice  weight. 

European  Silks  are  sold  conditioned  weight,  and  European  Con- 
ditioning House  tests  must  be  accepted,  unless  Buyer  chooses,  at  his 
own  expense,  to  have  the  silk  reconditioned  in  New  York.  Should 
the  result  be  1/3  of  one  per  cent,  less  than  European  conditioned 
weights,  Seller  must  accept  the  New  York  conditioned  weights 
and  pay  costs  of  the  re-conditioning;  each  bale  to  be  treated  indi- 
vidually. 

Tussahs  are  sold  invoice  weights,  or  actual  weights  carrying 
no  guarantee  of  loss  in  weight  by  conditioning. 

Bale  Weights.  A  contract  calls  for  the  delivery  of  a  number  of 
bales  or  pounds  varying  on  the  average  not  more  than  5  per  cent, 
from  the  following  usual  bale  weights: 

Europeans    220        pounds       net 

Japans   135 

Shanghais    135  "  " 

Tussahs     135  "  " 

Cantons     106  2/3 

Variation  in  weight  beyond  the  allowed  5  per  cent.,  shall  not  be 
cause  for  cancellation  of  contract,  but  may  be  adjusted  with  Seller 
at  market  rates  at  the  time  of  delivery. 

ADULTERATION.  Shanghai  Rereels  and  Native  Filatures  are  guaranteed 
by  Seller  not  to  lose  more  than  22  per  cent,  by  boil  off  at  Condition- 
ing House  in  New  York.  Buyer  and  Seller  may  have  as  many  tests 
made  as  they  see  fit,  at  their  own  expense,  and  the  average  of  all 
such  tests  shall  govern. 


LABORATORY:     472-474   BROOME   STREET,   NEW    YORK   CITY 


VARIATION  OF  SIZE.  The  average  size  under  contract  shall  not  vary 
more  than  given  below  for  different  classes  and  grades  uf  silk.  In 
case  of  dispute,  Buyer  and  Seller  may  have  as  many  tests  made  at 
Conditioning  House  in  New  York  as  they  desire.  The  average  of 
all  tests  on  a  bale  shall  determine  the  size  of  silks  in  the  bale.  For 
Asiatics,  the  average  of  all  bales  of  a  lot  shall  determine  the  aver- 
age of  the  lot,  and  if  more  than  one-third  of  the  bales  in  each 
individual  lot  are  of  wrong  size,  such  entire  lot  may  be  rejected; 
otherwise,  only  the  incorrect  bales  may  be  rejected.  European  bales 
are  treated  individually.  Test  skeins  must  be  drawn  from  bales  by 
the  Conditioning  House,  and  the  total  expense  of  such  tests  must 
be  borne  by  the  losing  party. 

European  Silks.  European  Conditioning  House  sizing  tickets 
shall  be  final,  unless  demonstrated  to  be  wrong  by  Conditioning 
House  at  New  York.  EXTRA  CLASSICAL  TO  No.  1  INCLUSIVE  11/12 
AND  FINER  shall  not  vary  more  than  3/8  denier  either  way  from 
the  average  given  on  each  and  every  bale. 

From  11/13  to  15/17 1/2  denier  either  way  is  allowed 

From  16/18  to  19/21 3/4       " 

From  20/22  to  24/26 7/8       "  "          "      " 

From  25/27  to  28/30 1       "  "          "      " 

FULLER,  the  variation  is  by  agreement. 

Japans.  Seller's  sizing  tests,  or  Yokohama  Conditioning  House 
sizing  tickets  shall  be  final,  unless  demonstrated  to  be  wrong  by 
Conditioning  House  at  New  York.  FANCY  AND  DOUBLE  EXTRA  are 
governed  by  the  same  rule  as  Europeans.  FILATURES  AND  REREELS, 
EXTRA  TO  No.  1/1^2  INCLUSIVE,  and  BEST  EXTRA  KAKEDAS  14/16 
AND  FINER,  shall  not  vary  more  than  1/2  denier  either  way  for 
the  lot,  and  1  denier  for  each  bale,  from  the  average  given.  FILA- 
TURES AND  REREELS  No.  1  1/2  TO  No.  2  INCLUSIVE  AND  KAKEDAS  EXTRA 
TO  No.  1  INCLUSIVE  14/18  AND  FINER,  shall  not  vary  more  than  1 
denier  either  way  for  the  lot,  and  1  1/2  denier  for  each  bale,  from 
the  average  given.  LOWER  GRADES  carry  no  guarantee  of  size. 

SIZE  16/18  AND  COARSER  IN  FILATURES  No.  1  AND  HIGHER 
GRADES  shall  not  vary  more  than  the  European  allowances  for  the 
lot,  and  1/2  denier  additional  for  each  bale,  from  the  average  given. 
COARSE  SIZES  below  No.  1  carry  no  guarantee  of  size. 

China  Steam  Filatures.  Seller's  si/ing  tests  shall  be  final, 
unless  demonstrated  to  be  wrong  by  Conditioning  House  at  New 
York.  FILATURES  FIRST  CATEGORY  are  governed  by  the  rule  for 
Europeans.  FILATURES  SECOND  CATEGORY  14/16  AND  FINER  shall  not 
vary  more  than  1/2  denier  either  way  for  the  lot,  and  1  denier  for 
each  bale,  from  the  average  given.  FILATURES  THIRD  CATEGORY  14/16 
AND  FINER  shall  not  vary  more  than  3/4  denier  either  way  for  the 
lot.  and  1  denier  for  each  bale,  from  the  average  given. 


UNITED   STATES   SILK   CONDITIONING   COMPANY 


Shanghai  Rereels,  Native  Filatures  and  Tussahs  carry  no 
guarantee  of  size. 

Canton  Filatures.  Seller's  sizing  tests  shall  be  final,  unless 
demonstrated  to  be  wrong  by  Conditioning  House  at  New  York. 
DOUBLE  EXTRA  AND  EXTRA  14/16  AND  FINER  shall  not  vary  more  than 
3/4  denier  either  way  for  the  lot,  and  1  1/4  denier  for  each  bale, 
from  the  average  given.  16/20  TO  28/32  shall,  not  vary  more  than 
1  1/2  denier  either  way  for  the  lot,  and  2  deniers  for  each  bale, 
from  the  average  given.  FILATURES  No.  1 — 14/16  AND  FINER  shall 
not  vary  more  than  1  denier  either  way  for  the  lot,  and  1  1/2  denier 
for  each  bale,  from  the  average  given. 

Canton  Filatures  No.  2  and  lower    1 

Canton  Rereels  }carrv  no  Suarantee  of  size. 

REJECTIONS  AND  REPLACEMENTS.  Any  bales  or  lots  rejected  for 
proper  cause  must  be  replaced  by  Seller  and  accepted  by  Buyer 
within  15  days  of  rejection  agreed  to  by  Seller  or  established  by 
arbitration.  Where  a  lot  of  similar  quality  and  size  is  not  ob- 
tainable on  the  New  York  market,  Seller  must  pay  Buyer  an  allow- 
ance to  cover  market  difference,  if  any.  In  case  of  a  specified,  un- 
inspected lot  on  a  primary  market — of  which  all  or  a  portion  shall 
prove  upon  inspection  not  of  the  stipulated  quality  and/or  size — 
Seller  must  immediately  notify  Buyer,  who  shall  have  the  option 
of  cancelling  such  incorrect  portion  of  the  contract,  or  of  instructing 
Seller  to  accept  it  with  any  allowance  that  he  may  be  able  to  collect, 
or  of  giving  the  necessary  time  for  replacement. 

CLAIMS  FOR  DIFFERENCES  IN  QUALITY  AND/OR  SIZE.  Seller's 
obligation  to  deliver  raw  silk  of  contract  quality  and  size  is  clearly 
defined.  Buyer  is  under  equal  obligation  to  examine  and  test  silk 
received,  and  promptly  pass  upon  its  quality  and  size  as  raw  silk  in 
the  bale.  This  can  be  determined  by  testing  sample  skeins  of  the  lot 
or  one  entire  bale;  Buyer  must  then  accept,  or  immediately  notify 
Seller  of  intention  to  reject  the  balance  of  the  lot.  All  claims  must 
be  made  within  two  weeks  after  delivery;  and  where  silks  remain 
in  the  custody  of  Seller  for  account  of  Buyer,  the  Buyer  shall  have 
three  weeks  from  expiration  of  time  for  delivery  in  which  to  pass 
upon  quality  and  size;  after  which  periods  no  claims  shall  be  ad- 
missible unless  false  or  fraudulent  packing  can  be  shown.  In  no  case 
can  the  Seller  be  held  as  guaranteeing  the  working  of  the  silk,  or  its 
suitability  to  produce  certain  results,  unless  by  special  agreement. 

ARBITRATION.  All  differences  arising  between  Buyer  and  Seller  must 
be  submitted  to  the  Arbitration  Committee  of  the  Silk  Association 
of  America. 


LABORATORY:     472-474   BROOM E    STREET,   NEW    YORK    CITY 


SELLING  TERMS 

The  recognized  rate  of  discount  in  the  Silk  Trade  is  6  per  cent, 
per  annum  when  not  otherwise  stated  or  agreed. 

Offers  of  silk  when  not  otherwise  stated  imply  : 
6  months  basis  for  Asiatics. 
60  days  basis  for  Europeans. 

Six  months,  4  Months,  3  Months,  or  60  Day  Notes.  Such  sales 
convey  no  right  to  discount.  Within  30  days  from  date  of  bill. 
Buyer  must  give  his  note  for  the  period  specified,  bearing  same  date 
as  bill,  drawn  to  his  own  order,  blank  endorsed  and  payable  at 
discretionary  points  as  denned  by  New  York  Clearing  House. 

Six  Months'  Notes,  or  Cash  Less  3  Per  Cent,  implies  the  right 
of  Buyer  to  pay  his  bill  within  10  days  (which  are  not  discountable) 
by  deducting  3  per  cent,  from  the  face  thereof;  otherwise  he  must 
give  6  months'  notes  from  date  of  bill  as  above  provided. 

Four  Months'  Notes,  or  Cash  Less  2  Per  Cent,  are  governed  in 
principle  by  the  above  terms. 

Ninety  Days'  Notes,  or  Cash  Less  1  1/2  Per  Cent,  are  governed 
in  principle  by  the  above  terms. 

Ninety  Days,  Sixty  Days,  or  Thirty  Days— requires  that  the 
bill  must  be  paid  within  the  time  specified. 

Six  Months'  Basis,  Payment  Within  30  Days,  or  60  Days  or  90 
Days  (as  written)  requires  payment  at  any  time  within  period  stated, 
with  discount  for  unexpired  portion  of  the  six  months. 

Six  Months'  Basis,  Settlement  by  Note  or  Cash  Within  30  Days, 
or  60  Days,  or  90  Days  (as  written)  gives  Buyer  the  option  of  pay- 
ing (at  any  time  within  the  stipulated  period  for  settlement)  in  cash 
less  discount  for  unexpired  portion  of  the  six  months,  or  giving  (at 
any  time  within  the  stipulated  period  for  settlement)  his  six  months' 
note  from  date  of  bill. 

Cash  Sales  less  a  stipulated  discount  require  immediate  payment 
of  the  bill  less  the  specified  discount. 

Bankers'  Credit  Sales  require  the  Buyer  to  immediately  furnish 
approved  Credits  at  the  usance  agreed  upon  in  the  transaction.  For 
such  sales  the  Seller  takes  no  responsibility  for  arrival,  damage, 
loss  or  pilferage  en  route.  Seller's  failure  to  demand  the  Letter 
of  Credit  shall  not  be  cause  for  voiding  the  contract. 

F.  0.  B. — Free  on  Board,  is  the  Shipper's  invoice  cost  of  the  silk 
placed  on  board  ship  at  port  of  original  export ;  Buyer  must  pro- 
vide and  pay  for  marine  insurance  and  freight. 

C.  &  F. — Cost  and  Freight,  is  the  Shipper's  invoice  cost  including 
freight. 

C.  F.  &  I.— Cost,  Freight  and  Insurance,  is  the  Shipper's  invoice 
cost  including  freight  and  marine  insurance. 


UNITED   STATES   SILK   CONDITIONING   COMPANY 

CLASSIFICATIONS  OF  RAW  SILKS 

Adopted  by  Division  A.,  June  15,  1908 

At  the  request  of  the  Board  of  Managers  of  the  Silk  Association  of 
America,  Division  A.  has  carefully  considered  the  classification  names  to 
apply  to  the  various  qualities  of  European  Silk,  and  Japan  Filatures, 
Rereels  and  Kakedas  dealt  in  on  the  New  York  Market  and  have  adopted 
the  following: 

EUROPEAN  SILKS. 

Grand   Extra.  Best  No.  1. 

Extra  Classical.  No.  1. 

Best   Classical.  Realina. 

Classical. 

JAPAN  SILKS. 
Filatures.  Rereels. 

Double  Extra.  Extra. 

Extra.  No.  1 

Sinshiu  Extra.  No.  1-1^. 

Best  No.-a  to  Extra.  No.  1^. 

Best  No.  1.  No.  1^-2. 

Hard  Nature  No.  1.  No.  2. 

No.   1   (of  the  grade  of  Sinshiu          No.  2-2^. 
Okaya      (Chicken)       Summer          No.  2^. 
reeling  Season  1907-8.  No.  3. 

No.  l-iy2.  Kakeda. 

No.  iy2.  Best  Extra. 

No.  iy2-2.  Extra. 

No.  2.  No.  1. 

No.  2. 
No.  3. 

The  Board  of  Managers  of  the  Silk  Association  of  America  at  a  meet- 
ing on  June  10,  1908,  approved  the  foregoing  classification  with  the  recom- 
mendation that  the  Raw  Silk  Division  of  the  Association  consider  the 
feasibility  of  tabulating  a  set  of  descriptions  with  samples  of  raw  silk  to 
represent  the  agreed  upon  classification  at  the  opening  of  each  silk  season. 

On  June  15,  1908,  the  Raw  Silk  Division  voted  to  endeavor  to  adopt 
a  standard  for  No.  1  Filatures  and  rereels  as  soon  after  the  opening  of 
each  silk  season  as  sufficient  silk  shall  have  arrived  in  New  York  to  give  a 
fair  representation  of  the  average  quality  of  the  season's  summer  reelings, 
and  this  matter  is  now  under  consideration  by  them. 

It  is  believed  that  the  deposit  with  the  Silk  Association  of  America 
at  the  opening  of  each  silk  season  of  a  set  of  samples  representing  say 
five  grades  of  silk  would  bring  within  the  reach  of  both  buyer  and  seller 
a  standard  to  which  offerings  of  parcels  could  be  compared;  thereby 
avoiding  existing  uncertainty  and  misapprehension  as  to  qualities. 


LABORATORY:     472-474   BROOME    STREET,   NEW    YORK    CITY 

SILK  THROWSTERS'  ASSOCIATION  OF  AMERICA 

RULES  AND  REGULATIONS 

TO  GOVERN  TRANSACTIONS  IN  THROWING  SILK 
(As  Amended  June  21,  1907.) 

Approved,  respectively,  by  the  Board  of  Managers  of  the  Silk  Associa- 
tion of  America,  February  13,  1907,  and  August  14,  1907. 

RESOLVED,  That  the  Rules  and  Regulations  of  the  Silk  Throwsters'  Association  of 
America  submitted  to  the  Silk  Association  of  America  on  January  5th,  1907, 
have  been  carefully  considered  by  the  Board  of  Managers  of  the  Silk  Associa- 
tion of  America  and  are  approved  by  .them. 

The  Board  feels  justified  in  adopting  them  as  rules  to  govern  the  adjudica- 
tion of  disputes  or  settlement  of  claims  between  throwsters  and  weavers  or 
whomsoever  they  may  concern,  where  no  other  special  agreements  have  been 
made,  provided  the  owner  of  the  raw  silk  has  been  furnished  with  a  copy  of  the 
regulations  of  the  Silk  Throwsters'  Association  prior  to  the  consignment  of 
silk  to  be  thrown. 

Article  I.  Winding — Raw  silk  is  single  thread  as  reeled  from  the 
cocoons  and  known  as  (raw  silk  with  knotted  ends).  It  is  understood 
to  be  a  continuous  thread  from  beginning  to  end  of  the  skein  and  as  a 
rule  this  class  of  silk  must  be  such  that  one  winder  can  attend  to  one 
hundred  swifts  with  a  thread  speed  of  sixty  yards  per  minute. 

Article  II.  Soaking — Only  such  ingredients  shall  be  added  in  soak- 
ing the  silk  as  will  boil  out  easily  in  the  ordinary  process  of  dyeing,  and 
only  such  amounts  as  shall  be  necessary  for  the  proper  throwing  of  the 
silk,  but  not  to  exceed  5  per  cent,  gain  in  weight. 

Article  III.  Twist — An  average  variation  of  10  per  cent,  on  organ- 
zine  (20  test  skeins)  either  way  from  the  twist  as  ordered  is  permissible. 
On  tram  two  and  one-half  to  three  turns  per  inch,  a  variation  of  one- 
half  turn  either  way  may  be  allowed. 

Article  IV.  Size — The  fineness  of  silk  is  determined  by  the  size.  The 
size  is  the  number  of  deniers  which  a  skein  of  a  certain  length  weighs. 
The  legal  denier  is  a  skein  of  silk  four  hundred  and  fifty  metres  long, 
wound  in  four  hundred  turns  on  a  reel  of  one  hundred  and  twelve  and 
one-half  centimeters  in  circumference  and  weighed  by  a  unit  of  five 
centigrams  (called  denier). 

To  establish  the  size  of  a  lot  of  silk,  ten  skeins  are  taken  from  every 
bale  and  from  different  parts  of  the  bale,  and  from  each  skein  two  test 
skeins  are  reeled  off,  on  Japan  silks,  one  inside  and  one  outside  skein. 
The  weight  of  these  test  skeins  is  to  be  reduced  to  conditioned  weight 
in  case  either  of  the  parties  to  the  transaction  desires.  On  raw  silk 
up  to  twenty  deniers  a  margin  of  one-half  denier  average,  above  or 
below,  is  permissible;  coarser  sizes  are  treated  as  special  articles. 

The  regularity  (evenness)  of  the  thread  of  different  grades  shall 
be  such  that  the  difference  between  the  finest  and  coarsest  test  skeins 
shall  not  be  more  than  is  decided  by  the  Rules  of  the  Silk  Association 
of  America. 

Article  V.  Reeling  into  Skeins — An  average  variation  of  5  per  cent. 
shall  be  allowed  from  the  number  of  yards  per  skein,  as  ordered  for 
thrown  silk.  The  minimum  number  of  test  skeins  is  twenty.  The  pro- 


UNITED   STATES   SILK   CONDITIONING   COMPANY 


cedure  is  similar  to  that  for  sizing  silk.  Condition  House  rules  to  apply. 
Article  VI.  Price,  Terms,  Etc.— The  price  for  throwing  is  net  cash, 
final  settlement  to  be  made  on  the  average  date  of  the  return  delivery 
of  the  product.  The  throwster  is  entitled  to  payment  on  account  in 
proportion  to  his  deliveries,  and  on  completion  of  work  when  held  for 
orders. 

Amendment  adopted  June  21,  1907: 

"Weights  for  throzving  silk  shall  be  estimated  upon  invoice  weights,  in 
no  case  less  than  condition  weight  plus  (2)  per  cent.,  or  upon  condition 
weight,  when  given,  plus  two  (2)  per  cent. 

Condition  zveight,  as  here  used,  is  found  by  adding  eleven  (11)  per 
cent,  to  absolute  dry  weight,  determined  from  samples  by  customary 
methods." 

Article  VII.  Payment  of  Transportation,  Etc. — The  consignee  pays 
the  transportation  charges  on  receipt  of  the  raw  silk;  the  consignor  pays 
the  transportation  charges  on  the  return  of  the  thrown  silk. 

Article  VIII.  Liability  for  Silk— A  commission  throwster  who  ac- 
cepts a  lot  of  raw  silk  for  the  manufacture  of  tram  or  organzine  or  any 
other  operation,  is  responsible  to  the  owner  for  the  full  value  of  the  silk 
as  long  as  it  remains  in  his  possession.  The  throwster  must  cover  by 
insurance  the  loss  of  silk  against  fire  while  in  his  immediate  possession. 

Article  IX.  Determination  of  Loss— In  order  to  establish  a  claim 
against  a  throwster  for  excess  of  loss  in  working,  the  whole  parcel  of 
raw  silk  to  be  thrown  should  be  sent  to  the  Condition  Works  to  be  tested 
for  the  conditioned  weight,  where  skeins  of  the  raw  silk  should  be  re- 
tained. The  entire  quantity  of  the  thrown  silk  should  be  returned  to 
the  Condition  Works  to  be  reweighed  for  conditioned  weight.  The 
boil-off  tests  of  the  raw  skeins  so  retained  and  the  skeins  of  thrown 
silk  should  be  tested  simultaneously  in  the  same  process,  and  the  boil-off 
established  in  this  manner  by  the  identical  process;  as  the  matter  of 
boiling-off  is  so  involved  in  uncertainty  if  done  at  different  times. 

Five  skeins  of  the  raw  silk  should  be  retained  from  each  bale,  and 
three  skeins  of  the  thrown  silk  from  each  one  hundred  pounds  for  the 
boiling-off  test. 

This  is  the  generally  accepted  practice  in  Europe,  and  the  matter  of 
the  amount  of  loss  to  be  allowed  in  the  actual  working  of  a  given  silk 
(to  oc  arrived  at  as  above  stated)  is  universally  a  matter  of  agreement 
between  the  manufacturer  and  the  throwster.  The  throwster  is  responsi- 
ble at  the  price  agreed  upon  on  receipt  of  the  silk  for  an  excess  of  loss 
above  the  amount  agreed,  and  the  owner  is  to  pay  the  throwster  at  this 
price  when  any  less  loss  is  made  than  the  amount  as  agreed. 

The  manufacturer  is  to  furnish  a  description  of  the  raw  silk,  giving 
the  origin,  classification  and  grading,  and  is  responsible  to  the  throwster 
for  a  proper  delivery  of  the  raw  silk  as  agreed  upon.  Duplicate  tickets 
of  all  tests  to  be  supplied  to  the  throwster. 

(Signed)    Silk  Throwsters'   Association   of   America. 
Attest:  By  JEROME  C.  READ,  President. 

JAMES  H.  BRITTON,  Secretary. 


LABORATORY:     472-474   BROOM E    STJ'EET,   NEW    YORK    CITY 


CUSTOMS  PREVAILING  IN  THE  SKEIN  SILK 

DYEING  TRADE  OF  THE  UNITED 

STATES,  SEPTEMBER,  1908 


STORAGE    AND    INSURANCE 

The  dyer  provides  safe  and  suitable  storage  for  silk  sent  to  him  to  dye, 
without  charge  to  the  customer,  assumes  liability  for  the  loss,  theft,  or 
destruction  of  silk  while  in  his  possession,  and  keeps  it  fully  insured. 

TRANSPORTATION    CHARGES 

The  dyer  pays  the  transportation  charges  on  the  silk  sent  him  to  dye, 
unless  otherwise  agreed,  and  he  delivers  the  dyed  silk  free  within  a  short 
radius  of  his  dye  house.  Transportation  charges  on  dyed  silk,  shipped 
to  a  considerable  distance,  to  be  paid  by  the  customer. 

PACKING 

The  dyer  when  shipping  the  dyed  silk  is  to  have  it  safely  and  suitably 
packed,  using  such  quality  of  paper,  cords,  and  bagging  as  will  insure  the 
proper  protection  of  the  silk. 

WITHDRAWALS   OF  UNDYED   SILK 

Should  the  customer  order  silk  to  be  sent  by  the  dyer  to  some  other 
dye  house,  or  to  be  returned  to  him  undyed,  he  must  reimburse  the  dyer 
for  any  money  that  has  been  expended  by  him  for  transportation  charge, 
insurance,  or  storage  of  such  silk. 

TIME   OF  DELIVERY    OF  ORDER 

Dyer  must  execute  order  with  reasonable  promptness.  If  silk  is 
on  hand  at  the  dyer's,  shipment  back  of  the  dyed  silk  may  be  expected 
in  from  one  to  three  weeks,  (according  to  circumstances  and  the  nature 
of  the  work),  from  receipt  of  the  order. 

PRICES,  DISCOUNTS,   AND  TERMS 

Prices,  discounts,  and  terms,  are  matters  of  mutual  arrangement.  A 
standard  printed  price  list  is  generally  used  as  a  basis  for  prices.  Bills 
are  rendered  at  the  end  of  each  month,  a  common  basis  of  settlement 
being  cash  within  30  days. 

ORDERS   FOR    WEIGHTING 

The  dyer  is  obligated  to  deliver  silk  within  the  limits  of  the  weighting 
ordered.  Thus,  20-22  oz.  is  supposed  not  to  run  below  20  oz.  and,  unless  by 


UNITED   STATES  SILK   CONDITIONING   COMPANY 


special  agreement,  a  greater  weight  than  22  oz.  cannot  be  claimed.  If  the 
weight  comes  less  than  20  oz.  the  customer  can  claim  the  price  corre- 
sponding with  what  it  weighs.  If,  however,  it  runs  over  22  oz.,  even 
when  not  specially  agreed  on,  the  dyer  cannot  charge  more  for  the  extra 
weight. 

WEIGHTING  OF  SILKS  WITH   VARYING  BOIL-OFFS 
Whether  the  dyer  treats  silk  having  either  a  light  or  a  heavy  boil-off, 
his  price  is  the  same,  though  he  is  at  greater  expense  in  bringing  up  the 
weight  of  the  silk  that  boils  off  most.     (N.  B.     This  is  an  anomaly  that 
seems  to  need  correction). 

MATCHING  COLORS 

The  dyer  does  not  undertake  to  guarantee  an  exact  match  to  sample, 
but  does  undertake  to  furnish  a  commercial  match,  that,  is,  a  shade  so 
close  that  fabrics  made  of  it  can  be  properly  delivered  as  that  color.  If 
the  customer  finds  on  examination  of  dyed  silk  that  same  is  off  shade,  or 
too  dark,  or  too  light,  the  dyer  will  make  the  necessary  modification  of  the 
color,  if  it  can  be  done  without  injury  to  the  working  qualities  of  the  silk, 
without  extra  charge. 

If,  through  his  error,  the  dyer  puts  on  the  silk  the  wrong  color,  or 
weighting,  the  customer  may  use  the  lot  if  he  chooses  to  do  so  to  the  best 
advantage  charging  the  dyer  the  loss,  if  any.  If  this  is  impossible  the 
dyer  may  be  required  to  pay  for  the  silk  at  current  market  prices. 

SHADY  SILK 

Should  silk  be  found  to  be  shady  to  an  uncommercial  degree  and  the 
defect  be  found  not  due  to  the  nature  of  the  silk  the  dyer  must  try  and 
rectify  the  trouble  at  his  own  expense,  and  should  this  be  impossible  he 
may  be  required  to  keep  and  pay  for  the  lot. 

Should  the  customer,  before  knowing  of  the  trouble,  have  put  such 
silk  in  work  the  dyer  may  not  only  be  required  to  make  right,  or  to  take 
back  and  pay  for,  the  silk,  as  already  stated,  but  he  should  reimburse  the 
customer  for  money  actually  spent  in  the  winding,  warping,  quilling,  etc., 
of  such  defective  lot. 

He  is  not,  however,  to  be  held  liable  for  damaged  cloth,  woven  from 
such  material,  past  the  point  where  the  defect  should  have  become  ap- 
parent, as  the  weaving  of  visibly  imperfect  goods  should  not  be  pro- 
ceeded with. 

The  consequential  damages  in  such  cases  due  to  standing  looms. 
goods  late  for  delivery,  etc.,  fall  upon  the  customer. 

ROTTEN   SILK 

Should  silk,  originally  sound,  be  returned  from  the  dyer  rotten,  or 
seriously  defective  in  strength,  or  should  it  while  remaining  in  stock  for  a 
reasonable  time  after  dyeing,  and  under  proper  conditions  of  storage, 


LABORATORY:     472-474    BROOME    STREET,   NEW    YORK    CITY 


develop  such  trouble,  the  dyer  can  be  called  on  to  take  back  and  pay  for 
the  silk. 

If,  however,  the  weighting  ordered  is  beyond  the  bounds  of  pru- 
dence and  the  limitations  of  good  practice,  the  dyer  should  promptly 
notify  the  customer  to  that  effect,  before  proceeding  with  the  order,  and, 
should  the  customer  then  direct  that  the  work  be  proceeded  with,  any  loss 
that  may  arise  if  the  silk  turns  out  unsound  must  be  borne  by  the  owner. 

FAST    COLORS 

Dyers  are  supposed  to  make  their  colors  commercially  fast  for  such 
ordinary  purposes  as  the  goods  are  used  for.  Customers  wanting  colors 
fast,  i.  e.,  not  liable  to  change  by  light,  washing,  perspiration,  or  what 
not,  must  so  specify  in  ordering,  and  charge  for  the  work  is  made  ac- 
cordingly. 

If  the  silk  is  ordered  "fast"  for  certain  uses,  and  is  paid  for  on  that 
basis,  and  claims  should  come  upon  the  manufacturer  for  a  deficiency  in 
this  respect  when  the  fabric  has  been  used  under  reasonable  conditions, 
the  dyer  may  properly  be  called  on  to  make  good  such  claims  as  the  manu- 
facturer has  had  to  allow. 

MIXED  SILK 

Should  the  dyer  mix  one  customer's  silk  with  another's,  or  different 
lots  of  the  same  customer's  silk,  he  is  chargeable  with  the  loss  that  may 
result. 

BAD  WINDING 

When  properly  thrown  silk  is  so  handled  in  the  dyeing  that  it  is 
difficult  to  wind,  and  when  in  consequence  the  customer  has  to  pay 
extra  wages  for  the  winding  of  it,  and  when  excessive  waste  may  be 
caused  thereby,  such  loss  in  wages  and  waste  is  properly  chargeable  to 
the  dyer. 

As  souple  dyed  silks  generally  wind  poorly,  specific  arrangement  with 
dyer  should  be  made  regarding  same. 

REMARKS 

All  claims  and  complaints  should  be  promptly  made,  clearly  stated, 
and  proper  opportunity  given  the  dyer  to  verify  and  check  them  off. 

The  difficulty  of  dyeing  and  the  chance  of  silk  going  wrong  being 
very  great,  it  is  the  duty  of  the  manufacturer  when  a  loss  occurs  that 
is  chargeable  to  the  dyer  to  try  by  all  reasonable  means  in  his  power  to 
minimize  it,  and  each  should  do  the  best  he  can  to  help  the  other. 

When  controversies  occur  between  dyer  and  manufacturer,  where 
each  party  thinks  the  other  is  unreasonable,  recourse  can  always  be  had  to 
an  arbitration  by  the  Silk  Association  of  America. 

September,  1908. 


Unreliable  cost  units  Hood  the   market  with  too  cheap   merchandise  until 
the  sheriff  or  the  schoolmaster  calls  a  halt. 


MANUFACTURER'S  COST  SHEETS 


On  the  following  pages  we  present  two  forms  for  use  in  the  making 
of  cost  calculations,  one  for  Broad  Silk  and  one  for  Ribbons,  which  are 
comprehensive  in  character,  correct  in  principle,  and  which  have  worked 
well  in  practise. 

We  believe  that  a  careful  study  of  these  forms,  and  of  the  explana- 
tions regarding  them,  will  be  of  interest  and  profit  to  manufacturers. 

The  heavy  faced  type  represents  the  written-in  calculation,  the  other 
is  the  printed  form. 

The  various  cost  figures  given  therein  are  assumed  simply  for  the 
purpose  of  illustration. 

It  is  needless  to  say  that  preliminary  calculations  should  always  be 
checked  back  and  verified  by  actual  results. 


BROAD  SILK  COST  CALCULATION 

Date,  January  1, 

1909. 

Pattern  Black  Taffeta.    Quality  C.  H.  100  Yds 

35% 

Wide. 

Reeding  60/3.     Width  in  Reed  36. 

Raw 

Warp       6416  Ends  Organzine              1.65  Drams           4.96  Ibs.  (g$5.95 

$29.51 

110  Yds  "     2  Thd.  13/15  Den. 

16/14  Turns  "    "  Jap.  Ex.  Fil.    $  
"      "  "   $  

Selvages   108—36—1  &  2 

$  

Total        6524  Ends  Organzine  

$  

Raw 

FILLING              88  Picks  Tram           2.57  Drams             3.40  Ibs.  @$5.81 

$19.75 

1  End  3  Thd.  3 

Turns  13/15  Den.  Jap.  Fil. 

No.  1 

$  

Warping    110  Yds. 

6524  Ends  @  3 

per  C 

$  1.96 

Twisting             6448  Ends  @ 

25  per  M.=  1.62 

-h3 

$     .54 

\Veaving 

99  Yards    @  7 

$  6.93 

Picking 

99  Yards,  @  24 

$     .75 

Cleaning    

99  Yards,  @... 

$  

Finishing    

100  Yards,  @  1 

$  1.00 

Cards  and  Designs  100  Yards 

(on  basis  of  Yards  made) 

$  

General  Expenses,  4.80—90.  .  . 

100  Yards,  @  5  1/3 

$  5.33 

(For  Piece  Dye)   Dyeing  and   Finishing... 

100  Yards,  @  .  .  . 

$  

(For  Ptd.  Wps.)   Weaving  before   Printing 

110  Yards,  @.  .  . 

$  

"         Printing    

110  Yards,  @  .  .  . 

$  

"        Rebeaming    

110  Yards,  @... 

$  

"         Retwisting     

Ends  @  per 

M^3 

$  

Average  Dyed  Weight  of  100  Yds. 

8.17  Ibs.     Net  cost  of  100 

Yds., 

$65.77 

Organzine  weighted  to  24/26  oz.     Tram  weighted  to  30/32  oz. 

4  per  cent,  is  included  in  above  figures  for  waste  of  warp. 

7           " 

filling. 

3 

"    twist  take-up  of  warp  and  filling. 

PARTICULARS  OF  COST  OF  SILK. 

$ 

% 

ORGANZINE                TRAM 

Raw  Silk  

32.76 

.498 

Raw  Silk  .  .  .$4.00                 $3.80 

Throwing    

4.66 

.071 

Throwing  ..  .$  .70                  $  .35 

Waste   

.87 

.013 

Dyeing    $1.00                  $1.25 
Winding  ....$  .15                  $  .15 

.140 

Doubling  ....$....                   $.  ... 

Winding  

1.25 

.019 

Quilling  $.  ...                   $  .15 

Quilling  

.51 

.008 

fhr.   Waste..  $  .10=2^%     $  .11=3% 

Warping  

1.96 

.029 

Total   $5.95                  $5.81 

Twisting   

•IT  T- 

.54 

.008 

Weaving   

6.93 

.106 

CONCLUSIONS. 

Picking  

.75 

.011 

Net  Mill  Cost  $0.6577 

Finishing   

1.00 

.015 

Lowest  Selling  Cost  65.77—  85.  $0.7738 

Estimated  Selling  Price, 

General  Expense  

5.33 

.082 

$0.85  Less  15%.  .  .  .$0.1275     $0.7225 

65.77 

1~000 

Weekly  Product,  per  Loom.  .  .90  Yds. 

57 


Erroneous  cost  figures  tend  to  poverty. 


REMARKS  CONCERNING  USE  OF  THE  COST 
CALCULATION  FORM,  FOR  BROAD  SILK, 

SHOWN   HEREWITH 

This  form  is  for  100  yards  finished  cloth.  A  length  of  110  yards  warp 
is  assumed  as  enough  to  cover  take-up  in  weaving  and  unwoven  ends  of 
warp.  This  can  be  modified  for  goods  with  more  or  less  take-up. 

The  size,  or  dramage,  of  organzine  and  tram  should  be  figured  from 
Conditioning  House  Sizing  tests,  and  should  include  an  average  take-up  in 
twist  of  about  3%. 

The  weight  of  silk  for  warp  and  filling  should  include  waste  in  weav- 
ing and  preparatory  processes,  and  is  here  assumed  as  4%  for  warp  and 
1%  for  filling,  a  very  full  figure  if  for  plain  goods.  This  can  be  modified 
according  to  experience  but  is  an  item  that  is  generally  under-estimated. 
Weights  should  be  figured  on  Raw  Conditioned  basis. 

Waste  in  throwing  is  filled  in  under  "Particulars  of  Cost  of  Silk"  and 
the  proper  percentages  will  be  shown  by  the  Conditioning  and  Boil-off 
tests. 

In  calculating  filling  the  full  width  of  warp  in  reed  should  be  taken 
as  the  width. 

Warping  cost  is  figured  on  a  price  for  100  ends  of  100  meters  (about 
110  yards)  length.  Mills  paying  on  another  basis  can  use  a  different  form. 

Total  length  of  warp  is  assumed  as  sufficient  to  yield  300  yards  of 
cloth.  Twisting  cost  for  the  100  yards  is  therefore  marked  as  1/3  of  the 
total.  For  other  length  warps  use  a  different  divisor.  Extra  drawing-in 
expense  can  be  here  included. 

Weaving,  picking  and  cleaning  are  based  on  99  yards,  as  cloth  when 
relieved  from  loom  tension  will  creep  in  about  1%.  This  is  recovered  in 
finishing  and  is  only  a  regain,  not  a  gain  as  many  suppose. 

When  cleaning  expenses  have  to  be  made  for  a  line  of  goods  experi- 
ence shows  what  percentage  of  pieces  need  cleaning  and  thus  an  average 
cost  per  yard  can  be  arrived  at. 

When  mills  do  their  finishing,  throwing,  or  printing,  the  market  prices 
should  appear  in  cost  sheet,  the  profit  or  loss  thereby  to  mill  appearing  in 
the  department  accounts. 

"Cards  and  Designs"  can  be  filled  in  according  to  the  mill  practise  and 
character  of  the  fabric.  Special  harness  expenses,  or  loom  mounting. 
can  be  here  included. 

"General  Expense"  should  include  every  charge  upon  the  mill,  ex- 
clusive of  specific  items  here  provided  for.  It  should  cover  interest  on 
capital,  loans,  and  Commission  House  advances,  depreciation,  and  every- 
thing except  selling  expense.  The  view  here  taken  is  that  each  loom 
should  pay  its  share  of  the  expense.  Thus  if  a  500  loom  mill  has  an  annual 


Persistent  unreliable  estimates  of  cost  spell  bankruptcy. 


expense  of  $120,000,  each  loom  has  to  be  charged  with  $240.00  a  year,  or 
$4.80  a  week. 

If  a  cloth  weaves  at  rate  of  80  yards  weekly,  4.80-=-80=:6c.  will  be  set 
down.  Sixty  yards  a  week  would  figure  8  cents.  A  greater  or  less  charge 
can  be  apportioned  to  different  classes  of  looms,  wide,  narrow,  box,  jac- 
quard,  etc.,  but  total  earnings  must  equal  total  expense. 

There  are  other  satisfactory  methods  of  handling  this  important  ques- 
tion but  there  is  one  most  common  ar.d  most  incorrect  way  of  dealing 
with  it — that  is,  adding  for  expenses  a  percentage  of  cost.  Figures  so  ob- 
tained are  seldom  right  and  often  grossly  wrong  and  misleading. 

The  cost  of  Beaming  has  been  here  included  in  the  General  Expense^, 
but,  if  desired,  it  can  be  figured  separately. 

If  piece  dyed  goods  lose  in  length  see  that  proper  allowance  is  made 
on  the  cost  sheet. 

"Weaving  before  Printing"  item  is  weaving  in  of  the  necessary  bind- 
ing picks,  every  yard  or  so,  to  preserve  pattern. 

In  deciding  what  weightings  to  order,  boil-off  Conditioning  House 
tests  should  be  carefully  studied  so  that  proportion  of  weighting  to  actual 
silk  fibre  will  be  neither  more  or  less  than  desired. 

Prices  on  Raw  silks  bought  on  different  terms  should  be  reduced  to 
a  uniform  basis.  If  desired  all  cost  sheets  can  be  made  on  a  settled  base 
price  for  the  raw  silks,  and  additions  to,  or  substractions  from  the  costs  so 
obtained  can  be  made  as  required,  according  to  market  fluctuations. 

Lowest  selling  cost  is  arrived  at  by  dividing  net  mill  cost  by  85,  ex- 
perience showing  the  selling  expenses  and  discounts  of  the  average  mill  to 
approximate  15%. 

RIBBONS. 

The  foregoing  remarks  will  also  apply  to  the  cost  calculation  form 
for  Ribbons  which  follows.  An  arbitrary  figure  of  $12  a  week  has  been 
assumed  for  the  general  expense  per  loom. 


Note  that  the  principal  items  of  cost  are  silk  weaving  and  general 
expenses.  Therefore,  selection  of  proper  raw  silk,  with  the  best  throwing 
and  dyeing,  reduces  these  items  by  increased  production  and  excellence  of 
output. 

Within  reasonable  limits,  a  difference  in  price  of  the  raw  silk,  throw- 
ing and  dyeing  is  so  small  in  percentage  that  it  is  easily  regained  in  the 
manufacturing. 


RIBBON  COST  CALCULATION 

Date,  January  1,  1908. 

Pattern  Black  Taffeta.    Quality  C.  H.    100  Yds.  Width  45  Lignes. 
Spaces  18.         Reeding  60/3.         Width  4  Inches. 

Raw 

Warp         726  Ends  Organzine             1.65  Drams              -58  Ibs.  @$5.65               $  3.28 
110  Yds "     2  Thd.  13/15  Den.      "      16/14  Turns"    "  Jap.  Ex.  Fil.  $ 

"  "      "    "  $ 

Selvages     48—24/2 "  "      "    "   $ 

Total         774  "  "  ..""..  .    $... 


Raw 
FILLING  88  Picks  Tram  2.57  Drams  -38  Ibs.  @$5.81 

1  End  3  Thd.  3  Turns  13/15  Den.  Jap.  Fil.  No*  1 

Warping    110  Yds.  774  Ends  @  3  per  C 

Twisting  750  Ends  @  25  per  M.=  18  -i-3 

Weaving,  1.80  per  cut  -=-18-^10 99  Yards,  @  1 

Picking,  24c.  per  piece 99  Yards,  @  .075 

Cleaning 99  Yards,  @   

Finishing,  Blocking  and  Boxing 100  Yards,  @  .45 

Cards  and  Designs  100  Yards  (on  basis  of Yards  made) 

. .  .  100  Yards,  @  .89 

...  100  Yards,  @   

...  110  Yards,  @   

...  110  Yards,  @   

...110  Yards,  @   

•  Ends  @ per  M-l-3 


General  Expenses,  $12-^18-1-75 
(For  Piece  Dye)  Dyeing  and  Finishing 
(For  Ptd.  Wps.)   Weaving  before  Printing 

Printing 

Rebeaming  and   Spacing 

Retwisting 

Average  Dyed  Weight  of  100  Yds.  1.42  Ibs.     Net  cost  of  100  Yds., 
Organzine  weighted  to  20/22  oz.    Tram  weighted  to  30/32  Oz. 


2.21 

.23 

.06 
.99 
.08 

.45 
.89 


8.19 


included   in  above  figu: 


for   waste  of  warp, 
filling. 
"    twist   take-up   of   wa 


$8.19-^-10—  .82 
$.82^45=1.82 


id   filling. 


PARTICULARS  OF  COST  OF  SILK. 


Raw  Silk 
Throwing 
Dyeing  .. 
Winding 
Doubling 

Quilling 

Thr.   Waste.. 


ORGANZINE 

.  .$4.00 
..$.70 
..$.70 
...$  .15 


.io=2y2% 


Total 


.  .  .  .$5.65 

CONCLUSIONS. 


$5.81 


Net  Mill  Cost,  per  Ligne $0.0182 

Net  Mill  Cost,  per  Piece $0.82 

Lowest  Selling  Cost  82-^85.  .  .$0.965 
Estimated  Selling  Price 

$1-10  Less  15%  ....  .$0.165      $0.935 
Weekly   Product,   per   Loom, 

per  Space 75  Yds. 


Raw    

Throwing   

Dyeing    

Winding  

Quilling  

Waste    

Warping    

Twisting    

Weaving    

Picking    

Finishing,  Blocking  and 

Boxing    

General  Expense  .... 


$ 

3.76 
.54 
.88 
.15 
.06 
.10 
.23 
.06 
.99 
.08 

.45 
.89 


.459 
.066 
.108 
.018 
.007 
.012 
.028 
.007 
.121 
.010 

.055 
.109 


8.19       1.000 


60 


Conditioning  Houses  supply  only  the  information  ivhich  can  be  expressed 
in  figures. 


DON'TS 

Don't  fail  to  see  that  intelligent  and  regular  use  is  made  of  your 
Conditioning  House  reports.  This  is  often  neglected.  If  carefully  used 
the  small  cost  of  these  tests  will  be,  either  directly  or  indirectly,  re- 
turned to  you  many  fold. 

Don't  believe  in  any  testing,  unless  made  by  persons  properly  trained, 
and  with  accurate  instruments.  Europe  discovered  the  need  of  exact 
methods  years  ago. 

Don't  look  on  Conditioning  House  charges  as  an  expense  to  be 
avoided  if  possible.  The  salary  of  a  weighmaster,  or  an  employee  to 
measure  goods,  is  considered  a  necessary  expense  of  a  business,  and  while 
it  could  be  avoided  by  accepting  weights  and  measures  as  delivered  by 
seller  no  sensible  person  would  do  so.  With  such  an  expensive  and 
moisture  absorbing  material  as  silk  the  check-off  of  the  Conditioning 
House  is  just  as  vital. 

Don't  forget  that  the  foremost,  smartest,  and  most  economical  houses 
use  the  Conditioning  House  freely  and  regularly  and  find  a  saving  in  so 
doing.  Can  you  afford  not  to? 

Don't  forget  that  all  people,  including  raw  silk  importers  and  throws- 
ters, are  human.  Therefore  who  is  most  apt  to  get  a  lot  of  raw  silk  that 
is  in  some  way  questionable?  With  whose  silk  is  the  average  throwster 
likely  to  exercise  the  least  care  in  the  matter  of  waste,  etc.?  Why  of 
course  with  those  houses  that  do  not  regularly  pass  their  raw  and  thrown 
silk  through  the  Conditioning  House. 

Don't  think  that  the  United  States  Silk  Conditioning  House  simply 
exists  as  an  institution  for  preventing  trickery.  Its  function  is  to  enable 
the  trade  to  know  with  aboslute  certainty  what  weights,  yardage,  etc.,  etc., 
of  silk,  they  are  getting  for  the  dollars  they  are  paying  out. 

At  the  same  time  the  general  use  by  the  trade  of  Conditioning  House 
Tests  in  all  transactions  would  practically  eliminate  questionable  practices. 

Don't  forget  that,  if  for  no  other  reason,  it  pays  to  set  an  example 
for  care  and  accuracy  by  the  free  use  of  the  Conditioning  House  facilities 
as  it  will  help  to  make  such  use  the  general  custom,  and  when  practically 
everybody  tests  his  silk  we  will  see  fewer  absurd  prices  for  goods  made 
by  those  who  will  not  take  the  pains  to  find  out  just  what  their  goods  do 
cost  them. 

Don't  make  claims  on  raw  silk  houses,  throwsters,  dyers  or  finishers, 
until  you  are  entirely  sure  of  your  ground,  and  the  facilities  offered  by  the 
Conditioning  House  will  be  found  of  the  greatest  service  in  the  proving 
of  all  just  claims,  and  by  their  use  much  misunderstanding  may  be  avoided. 

Don't  hesitate  to  ask  freely  for  information  on  any  points  that  may  not 
appear  to  be  clear.  We  welcome  enquiries  and  suggestions. 


al  use  of  conditioning  tests  will  eliminate  unfair  and  unnt 

competition  from  all  branches  of  the  business  and  is  in  the 

line  of  true  costing  of  silk  merchandise. 


Don't  expect  something  for  nothing.  Exact  information  costs  money 
to  arrive  at  and  is  worth  paying  for.  What  costs  nothing  is  generally 
worth  nothing. 

Don't  expect  the  Conditioning  House  eto  tell  you  how  to  manufacture 
goods,  or  to  say  what  sort  of  silks  you  should  use  for  particular  purposes. 

Don't  ask  the  Conditioning  House  to  pass  on  the  classification  of  any 
particular  lot  of  silk.  As  no  exact  standards  exist,  at  present,  there  is 
no  basis  for  exact  decisions. 

Don't  be  too  sure  that,  even  in  your  own  throwing  plant,  you  know 
exactly  the  waste  you  are  making.  Much  waste  is  made  that  never  finds 
its  way  to  the  waste  bag.  An  occasional  Combination  Test  by  the  Con- 
ditioning House  is  a  very  useful  check. 

Don't  overlook  the  fact  that  the  greater  the  boil-off  the  less  silk 
fibre  you  get  for  your  money,  and  boil-offs  differ  widely.  Makers  of  grege 
goods  for  piece  dye,  etc.,  should  know  the  boil-off  of  the  different  lots 
they  receive  and  the  Conditioning  House  can  tell  them. 

Don't  be  penny  wise  and  pound  foolish.  If  every  bale  of  raw  or 
thrown  silk  was  regularly  subjected  to  all  the  Conditioning  Tests  the 
total  cost  would  be  a  very  small  addition  to  the  cost  of  the  silk.  The 
unseen  losses  that  may  and  do  occur  from  a  lack  of  the  proper  knowledge 
will  run  into  astonishingly  large  figures. 

Don't  think  that  even  when  you  do  your  own  throwing  tha"t  you  know 
all  about  the  dramage  of  a  lot  by  figuring  out  the  length  and  number  of 
the  skeins,  and  that  there  is  no  use  in  having  sizing  tests  made.  This  is 
a  most  erroneous  supposition.  When  a  garment  maker  buys  cloth  he 
does  not  cut  up  his  goods  and  trust  to  the  length  holding  out  for  as  many 
garments  as  it  should.  He  would  be  a  poor  manufacturer  if  he  did  not 
measure  his  goods  first. 

Don't  forget  that  silk  is  not  the  only  material  in  need  of  testing. 
Fine  cottons,  worsteds,  etc.,  are  expensive  and  need  checking  off  just  as 
much. 

Don't  forget  that  the  United  States  Conditioning  Company  is  not 
operated  as  a  money  making  enterprise.  It  is  designed  to  promote  the 
general  welfare  of  the  trade,  and  many  experienced  and  capable  men  ate 
giving  much  time,  thought,  and  money  in  its  service  without  thought  of  any 
direct  commercial  return.  Manufacturers  should  show  an  appreciation 
of  this  by  making  free  and  constant  use  of  its  facilities,  and  those  who 
do,  will  find  that  they  will  be  well  rewarded  in  the  close  control  of  their 
business  that  it  will  give  them. 


INDEX 

Adulterations   of    Shanghai    rereels,    etc 46 

Annual  consumption  of  raw  silk  in  United   States  and   Europe 6 

Arbitrations    « 4,   44,   48,  51,   55 

Asiatic    silks,    allowable    moisture 46 

Authorized   Official  Testing   House   of   Silk   Association   of  America 4 

Bad    winding   of   dyed    silk 55 

Blair's    International    Yarn    Tables 33-38 

Boil-off     certificate 18 

Boil-off,   difference   between   Conditioning   House    and    dyer's 19 

Boil-off    in    dyeing,    variations 54 

Boil-off   tests  of  raw    and   thrown   silk 19,   52 

Boil-off    tests,    variation    in 7 

Broad    silk    cost    calculation 57 

Canton    filatures,    selling    weights 46 

Canton    filatures,    variation    in    size 48 

Canton    rereels,    selling    weights 46 

Carded   silk,    regain   in   weight 27 

Certificates,    rules   regarding    deliveries   of 28 

China  native   filatures,   no  guarantee  of   size 48 

China    rereels,    selling    weights 40 

China  steam   filatures,   selling   weights 46 

China   steam   filatures,    variation   in   size 47 

Claims    against    dyers 55 

Claims    against    throwsters 52 

Claims  for  difference  in  quality,  or  size,  of  raw  silk 48 

Classifications    of    raw    silk 50 

Color    matching    in    dyeing 54 

Combination    test,    description    of 22 

Combination    test,    value    of 22,   28 

Compound    sizing   test,    description   of 15 

Conditioned    weight    certificate 8 

Conditioned   weight,   plus  2%,   for   raw   silk   purchases 11 

Conditioned    weight,    plus   2%,   explanation   of 11 

Conditioned    weight   tests,    variation    in 7 

Conditioning,    description    of    process 9,  10,  26 

Conditioning   House    rules    and    regulations 26-28 

Conditioning   houses   in    Europe,    where    located 43 

Conditioning,     Corti     system 6,   43 

Conditioning,    Talabot    system 42-43 

Conditioning    tests,    when    inconclusive 26 

Contents     *         3 

Controversies   settled   by   Board  of   Arbitration   of   Silk   Association   of   America 

4,   44,   48,  51,   5& 

Cost    calculation,    broad    silk 57 

Cost    calculation,    ribbon 60 

Cost     sheets,     manufacturer's 56-60 

Cotton   and    cotton   yarn,    regain    in   weight 27 

Cotton  and   wool  mixed  yarn,   regain   in   weight 27 

Cotton   yarn   tests,   importance   of 21 

Customs   prevailing  in   skein   silk  dyeing  trade 53-55 

Deferred   deliveries   of    raw   silk 45 

Delivery  by  dyers  of   silk   ordered   dyed 53 

Deliveries  of  raw  silk,   rules  regarding  same 44-45 

Deniers  and  drams,   rule   for  interchanging 39 

Denier,    length    per   pound 15 

Denier,    what    it    is 15,   27 

Directors  of   United    States   Silk   Conditioning   Company 5 

Disputes  and  differences  settled  by  Board  of  Arbitration  of  Silk  Association  of 

America     , 4,   44,   48,  51,   55 

Don'ts      61-62 

Drams   and   deniers,    equivalents    of 34-38 

Drams,    rule    for    finding   yardage 39 


63 


INDEX— Continued 

PAGE 

Dram    system    of    counts 39 

Dyed    silk   packing 53 

Dyeing,   results  due  to   different  boil-off s 24-25 

Dyeing,   value  of  boil-off  tests 24-25 

Dyer's  liability  for  loss,   etc.,   of  silk 53 

Dyer's  prices,   discounts   and   terms 53 

Elasticity  and  Tenacity  of  thrown   silk 16 

Elasticity  and   Tenacity,   averages. 16 

Elasticity  and  Tenacity  tests,   how    expressed 16,   27 

Elasticity  and  Tenacity  tests,  variation   in 7,   16 

Equivalents  of  drams  and   deniers 34-38 

Equivalents,    metric 29 

Equivalents  of  ounces  in  decimals  of  pounds 32 

Equivalents  of  pound  weights  in  kilos  and  decimals 31 

European    silks,    classified 50 

European   silks,  selling  weights 46 

European   silks,   variation   in   size 47 

Excessive   weighting,   if   ordered 55 

Executive   Committee  of  United   States   Silk   Conditioning   Company 5 

Fast    colors 55 

Foreword    6-7 

General  expenses  of  mills,   method  of  figuring 5S-&9 

History  of  silk  conditioning 41-43 

Inconclusive    conditioning    tests 26 

Index     63-66 

nspection   test,   description   of   process 17 

nsurance   on    raw   silk 45 

nsurance  on    silk   at   dyer's 53 

nsurance   on  silk  at  throwster's 52 

nternational  system  of  yarn  counts 33 

nternational    yarn    tables 3338 

nvoice   of    raw    silk 10 

Japan    silk    classification 50 

Japan    silks,    selling    weights 46 

Japan   silks,   variations   in    size 47 

Jute  «nd  jute  yarns,    regain   in   weight 27 

Kakeda    silk    classifications 50 

Lacings  of  skeins  not  considered  as  tare 26 

Lengths  of  silk  per  pound,   table   of 39.40 

Length  per  pound  of  one  denier  silk 15?   39 

Length  per  pound,   rule  for  finding  dramage 39 

Limitations  and  variations  of  raw  silk  sizes 47-48 

Limit  of  time  for  making  claims  on  raw  silk 4g 

Linen  and  linen  yarn,  regain  in  weight 27 

Loss   in   throwing,    illustrations 23 

"Lousiness"   of   dyed    silk ]"  17 

Manufacturers'    cost    sheets 56.60 

Matching  colors   in   dyeing 54 

Measures  and   weights,   tables  of \[[  29 

Measuring    certificate OQ 

Measuring  length  of  skeins,  description  of  process 21 

Measuring   tests,    variation    in '.'.'.'.'.  7 

Metric  equivalents  of  weights  and  measures 29 

Meter,    exact   length   in   inches '.'.'.'.'.'.  29    39 

Metric  weight  equivalents  in   pounds   and   decimals '   30 


INDEX  — Continued 

PAGE 

Mixed   silk,    responsibility   of   dyer 55 

Moisture  allowable   in  Asiatic   silks 46 

Moisture   in   silk 9,  26,  27 

Officers  of  United  States  Silk  Conditioning  Company 5 

Official  testing  house,  United   States   Silk   Conditioning  Company 4 

Ounce  weight  equivalents  in  decimals  of  the  pound 32 

Packing  of  dyed  silk 53 

Payments  for  testing,  by  whom  to  be  made 28 

Percentages    of    regain 27 

Photograph  of  Corti  conditioning  oven  in  operation  at  United   States   Silk  Con- 
ditioning Company,    New   York Frontispiece 

Photograph    showing   accurate    weighing   of   samples   at   United    States   Silk   Con- 
ditioning  Company,    New   York 7 A 

Points  of  interest  in  the  history  of  silk  conditioning 41-43 

Pound  weight  equivalents  in  kilos  and  decimals 31 

Price  of  shares  in  United   States  Silk   Conditioning  Company 5 

Price  list  of  United  States  Silk  Conditioning  Company 28 

Prices,  discounts  and  terms  for  dyeing 53 

Principle    of    conditioning 7 

Ravelings,  or  "lousiness,"  of  dyed   silk 17 

Raw    silk,   Asiatic,   allowable   moisture 46 

Raw  silk  bale  weights  and   allowable  variation 46 

Raw    silk    classifications 50 

Raw   silk    invoice 10 

Raw  silk  purchase  on  basis  of  conditioned  weight,  plus  2% 11 

Raw   silk  sizes,   limitations   and   variations 47-48 

Raw  silk  weights,   how  understood 45 

Raw   silk   yards  per   pound,   table   of 40 

Regain    in    weight   of   silk 9,   27 

Regain  in  weight  of  various  textile   fibres 27 

Rejections   and   replacements  of  raw   silk 48 

Remarks  on  use  of  manufacturers'  cost  calculations 58-59 

Resolution  of  the  Board  of  Managers  of  the  Silk  Association  of  America 4 

Ribbon    cost    calculation 60 

Rotten     silk 54 

Rules   and   Regulations   for   handling   silk 26-28 

Rules   and   Regulations   of   silk   throwsters 51-52 

Rule   for   interchanging  deniers  and   drams 39 

Rule  of  seven  fours 39 

Rules  governing  transactions  in   raw  silk 44-49 

Rules   regarding   delivery   of   certificates 28 

Sales  of  specified   lots  of  raw  silk 44 

Sales  of  unspecified   lots  of  raw  silk 44 

Samples  of  raw  silk  on  which  to  base  classification 50 

Schappe   silk,    regain   in    weight 27 

Secrecy  of  all   tests 26 

Selling  terms   in   raw   silk  trade 49 

Shady    silk 54 

Shanghai    rereels,    no   guarantee   of   size 48 

Shipments  of  raw  silk  from  abroad 45 

Silk  and  wool  mixed   yarn,  regain  in  weight 27 

Silk  conditioning,   Points  of  interest  in  History  of 41-43 

Silk   conditioning,    Corti   system 6,  43 

Silk    conditioning,    Talabot    system 42-43 

Silk   mixed   at   dyehouse 55 

Silk,   regain   in  weight 9,   27 

Silk  throwsters'    Rules   and    Regulations .  51-52 

Sizes  of  raw  silk,   limitations   and   variations 47-48 

Size  variation  allowable  in   raw   silk  purchases 47-48 

Sizing    certificate 14 


INDEX—  Continued 

PAGE 

Sizing,   description   of   compound   test  .......................................  15 

Sizing   tests,    description   of   process  ......................................  15,  27,   51 

Sizing   tests,    variation    in  .................................................  7 

Skein  silk  dyeing,  customs  of  the  trade  .....................................  53-55 

Soaking  in  throwing,   limit  of  allowable  gain  ................................  51 

Soaking  in  throwing,  substances  to  be  used  ..................................  51 

Souple    dyed    silk  ..........................................................  55 

Spun  silk,   regain  in   weight  ................................................  27 

Stockholders  of  the   United   States    Silk   Conditioning   Company  ...............  5 

Storage  of  silk  sent  to  dyer  ................................................  &3 

Table  of  lengths  of  silk  per  pound  ..........................................  39-40 

Take-up  in  twist  of  thrown   silk  ............................................  21,   39 

Talabot  system   of   silk   conditioning  .........................................  42-43 

Tare,   what   it   includes  ................................................  9,   13,  26,   45 

Tenacity,    table   of   averages  ................................................  16 

Tenacity    tests  .............................................................  16 

Terms  governing  sales  of   raw  silk  ..........................................  49 

Thrown  silk,  elasticity  and  tenacity  of  ......................................  16 

Thrown  silk,  variation  in  length  of  skeins  ...................................  51 

Thrown  silk,   variation  in  twist  .............................................  51 

Throwsters'   charges,   weights  on   which   based  ................................  52 

Throwsters'    clearances,    illustrations  .........................................  23 

Throwsters'   liability   for  loss,   etc.,   of   silk  ...................................  52 

Throwsters'  limitations  as  to  use  of  soap  and  oil  .............................  51 

Throwsters'   Rules   and    Regulations  .........................................  51-52 

Throwsters'   waste  or   loss,    how   shown  ......................................  52 

Time  to  be  allowed  for  dyeing  silk  .........................................  53 

Tow  and  tow  yarn,  regain  in  weight  ........................................  27 

Transportation  charges  on  silk  sent  to  dyer  .................................  53 

Transportation  charges  on   silk   sent  to   throwster  ............................  52 

Tsatlees.     See  China  and  Shanghai  native  filatures  and  rereels  ................  46,   48 

Tussahs,    selling    weights  ...................................................  46 

Twist    certificate  ...........................................................  14 

Twist  tests,  description   of  process  ..........................................  16,   27 

Twist   tests,    variation    in  ...................................................  7,   16 

Undyed  silk,  withdrawals   from  dyer  ........................................  53 

Value  of   Conditioning  .....................................................  67 

Variation  in  length  of  thrown   silk  skeins  ...................................  51 

Variation  allowable  in  size  of  raw  silk  ......................................  47-48 

Variation    in    tests  .........................................................  7 

Variation  in  twist  of  thrown  silk  ...........................................  51 

Value  of  tests  in  dyeing  ................................................  34 


Waste,  or  loss,  in  throwing,  how  to  prove  ...................................  52 

Weighing  bales  in   shirts   and   with   tare  .....................................  13 

Weighing    certificate  .......................................................  12 

Weighting  orders  for  dyeing,  limits  of  variation  .............................  53 

Weighting   ordered,    when    excessive  ........................................  55 

Weighting  silks  of  different  boil-off  s  ........................................  5.4 

Weights  and   measures,   table   of  ............................................  29 

Weights  of  raw  silk  bales  and  allowable  variations  ...........................  46 

Weights  of  raw  silk  purchases,  how  understood  ..............................  45-46 

Weights  on  which  throwsters'  charges  are  based  .........................  52 

Withdrawals   from  dyer  of  undyed   silk  .........................  ..'...'..'.'.'.'.'.  53 

Wool  and  cotton  mixed  yarn,  regain  in   weight  .........................  27 

Wool  and  silk  mixed  yarn,  regain  in  weight  ...................  .  ........  27 

Wool,  carded,  and  wool  waste,  regain  in   weight  ....................  27 

Wool  yarn,   regain   in  weight  ...............................................  27 

Yards  per  pound  of  raw  and  thrown  silk,  table  ..............................  40 

Yarn   counts,    International    System  ...........  oo 


THE  VALUE  OF  CONDITIONING 

FOR  WEIGHT.    You  know  exactly  how  many  pounds  you  should  pay  for. 

Pages  9-11,  45-46 

FOR  VARIATION  IN  SIZE,  AND  FOR  AVERAGE  SIZE.  You  are  shown 
the  regularity  of  the  silk,  and  the  average  yardage  per  pound. 

Pages  15,  47 

FOR  ELASTICITY  AND  TENACITY.  Enables  you  to  select  the  right  lots 
for  different  fabrics,  thus  helping  production.  Even  the  best  silks, 
and  of  the  same  mark,  vary  widely.  Page  16 

INSPECTION  TEST.     Is  a  guide  in  examining  quality  before  acceptance. 

Pages   17,  48 

BOIL-OFF  TEST.  Shows  returns  and  clearances  from  the  throwing. 
Shows  the  proper  amount  of  weighting  to  order  from  dyer. 

Pages  19,  23-25,  52 
FOR  TWIST.     Showing  if  your  silk  has  been  twisted  as  ordered. 

Page  16 
MEASURING  TEST.     Tells  you  if  your  skeins  are  of  proper  length. 

Page  21 
COMBINATION  TEST.     Automatically  keeps  you  posted   in  several 

important  directions.  Pages  22-23 


The  cost  of  complete  tests  for  every  bale  of  raw  and  thrown  silk 
used  would  be  only  about  half  of  one  per  cent,  of  the  cost  of  the  output. 
In  Europe  this  expense  is  considered  as  much  a  part  of  the  manufacturing 
cost  as  any  of  the  mechanical  operations. 

The  American  manufacturer  should  recognize  this  truth.  Regular 
and  thorough  testing  saves  its  cost  many  fold  in  preventing  mistakes  as 
well  as  in  tangible  gains. 


WE  DESIRE  INQUIRY  AND  WILL  GLADLY  GIVE  INFORMATION 
OR  EXPLANATION  REGARDING  THE  CONTENTS   OF  THIS  BOOK. 


University  of  California 

SOUTHERN  REGIONAL  LIBRARY  FACILITY 

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